Singhik & Phodang in Sikkim 1985

Singhik & Phodang – Dec. 06 – 11 1985

Singhik:

Friday December 06 1985:

Everything was so sudden – the whole idea of visiting Phodang / Singhik. Immediately I went from office and enquired at Tourism Information Centre about Singhik and Losong (New Year) festivities at Phodang Gompa. Then talked to Mr. Laxman Pradhan, ASI, Sikkim Police. Gave CL application at office and started packing in the evening with a view to catching the 8.30AM bus.

Saturday December 07 1985:

Changed my mind and decided to go by the 1 ½ PM bus. In the meanwhile, went to Sikkim PWD and got reservation for Singhik Dak Bungalow (later I realised it was a wise deed, indeed.). The Mangan bus was more than over crowded before 1 PM itself. Not only the inside but also even the top was full with all sorts of luggage, including pigs and chicken. The air inside the stationary bus was stuffy and nauseating with the omnipresent smell of local brew (raksi).

The conductor was considerate and provided a seat after Phensong (say, 3.45 PM). Had tea at Phodang and also reserved at Yak & Yeti Hotel there for the Losong festival days. The road after Rang Rang bridge was so bad for about 5-6 kms. Before reaching Rang Rang bridge, all the passengers had to get down at two places so that the bus could safely cross those points. The spots were rather steep and bad in shape. Reached Mangan at 6.30 PM. Dinner at Assam Hotel (rice was fine and good). The bus stopped at Mangan itself, as there was all the luggage on the top to be unloaded and it was quite dark already. So walked up to Singhik, listening to my transistor – just to kill my fear on the dark and lonely road. The batteries of the torchlight were too weak to show any light. I cursed my stinginess on this account. Holding my heart and my rucksack and shoulder bag, I crossed each corner of the road with the hope that every distant light was coming from Singhik. At last reached Singhik and found the boy, Bokhok Lepcha, son of the watchman of the Dak Bungalow, Mr. Baknour Lepcha. The bubbly boy took me to the Dak Bungalow. With the little water already stored there, I washed myself. The sky was so clear that one could count each and every star.

It was wise that I dined at Mangan itself, as not even a cup of tea was available at Singhik by the time I reached there by 8.30 PM (?)

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.. 2..

Sunday December 08 1985:

I was so anxious not to miss the early morning view that I could not sleep well. I got up as early as 3 AM. The sky was so clear and I could see a faint outline of Singlalila Range. By 5.30 AM the view was good. I could see snow-clad peaks on three sides – West, East and North. I enjoyed to my heart’s content the golden touch of the sun on the range. It was slightly foggy and cloudy, though. Came down to the bazaar and had tea and breakfast at Bihari Hotel. Bathed at the mini waterfall behind the Dak Bungalow. Took snaps at bazaar, had my lunch.

Roamed a bit near the old school building and then walked up to Manul (4 kms.) further up on the North Sikkim Highway. On way was Lhanda Khola landslip area. There was a winch (to be used during rainy season for loading and unloading of goods, as the slip could not be cleared for weeks together and the passengers had to trek roundabout for trans-shipment.) I was told there was a proposal to build a bridge down below and a new road on the opposite hill.

Saw from a distance the 1983 Manul landslide area which killed about 100 BRO/GREF (Border Roads Organisation / General Reserve Engineering Force ?) men and family members in October 1983. Returned by 3 PM, bathed and washed at the waterfall site. After tea, sat down to write a lengthy letter to Hariharan (my close friend who got transferred to SBI Kerala from Gangtok) with Shangrilla (drinks) at my side. Dined and slept. Without forgetting, bought new batteries for the torchlight.

The Dak Bungalow is in a bad shape. Due to landslips, it leans towards West. No proper water supply. Lepcha had managed to give water connection from the waterfall. Though a permanent source, the connection was not done properly, hence the supply was irregular. However, the lonely situation atop a hillock – hence the peaceful atmosphere – fully made for it.

Monday December 09 1985:

Came down to Singhik bazaar, but the teashop was closed. Most of Singhik's Buddhist devotees (as also of Sikkim) had gone to Bodh Gaya to have a darshan of H.H. Dalai Lama who was camping there for the Kala Chakra Pooja.

… 3/-

.. 3..

Climbed up to the Monastery, further up and beyond the Dak Bungalow. It opens only at about 4 PM. A devotee from down below the Singhik bazaar area was collecting the 108 brass butter lamps which he had lit there the previous evening. The Gompa is damaged slightly due to landslips and the paint has faded.

French-bathed and walked towards Mangan. Ate lunch at Assam Hotel and roamed a bit here and there. Went quite a distance down the road towards Rang Rang. Saw the bazaar area which is a 4-tiered one. Video Parlous abound (some four) and one of them resembled a cinema hall. A new district----level Secretariat was being built on the uphill, but I did not go there. Mangan being the HQ of North Sikkim District. Walked on the katcha road (adjacent to hospital which joins the NH) for up to 2 or 3 kms. Bought some ‘santhula’ (kamala orange) which I enjoyed on my return trek to Singhik.

Bathed, wrote down notes, had a drink, read some books, dined and went to bed. Slightly clear night sky, though the daytime view was not clear. It was indeed wise of me to have reached Singhik on 7^th night itself, braving the lonely road from Mangan. Else I would have missed the dawn view once for all and the whole trip would have been unfulfilling.

(Mangan elevation 3950 ft.)

Map of Singhik

Phodang:

Tuesday December 10 1985:

Sky cloudy. View completely screened off. Boarded the 7 AM bus from Singhik. It comes from Mangan and again leaves for Mangan towards Gangtok. Every seat had been booked at Mangan itself. Had to stand up to Phodang (3 hours). After lunch at Yak & Yeti, went to Gompa. Saw Lamas and masked dances. Ate momo (pork covered with rice flour and steam cooked). Had a peg and later rice and saag (greens). About 35 or 36 lamas, in their usual uniform, dance. They have a pendant-like thing (made of cloth) hanging from their waist. Later, 8 white- and 8 red-masked dancers come out of the Gompa and run on either side of the Gompa. Again they assemble and have competition-like movements (there are two marked rectangles within which each group stands) and various combined movements. Finally, they run inside shouting, throwing their drums on the lawn, while devotees whistle and shout.

…4/-

..4..

The Lamas again come out and dance (holding nothing in their hands). One of them dances in the mid-circle. Their shawl-like upper garment is arranged and tied on to their bodies in a special manner. The background music is scored by Lamas. It is a two-storied gompa; has a lot of old thangkhas hanging inside.

Wednesday December 11 1985:

After a cup of tea at Yak & Yeti, started off towards the Gompa along with the Canadian pair. Mahakala had been erected at the center of the lawn, below the flag-post.

1.The dhup (incense)-stand holding little lamas and others holding cup and edibles come out first. About 40 Black Hat Lama dancers follow; they dance holding vajra and shell-like piece on each hand; a cup each is distributed and the vajra is collected. Edibles and water placed in the cup. Dance continues, throwing the cups’ contents four times (after being filled each time) on to the lawn. The vajra (thunderbolt) is distributed again, each picking up his. They dance and go inside.

2. Fifteen Lamas with giant masks and 22 with animal and bird masks dance.

3. The main black hat dancer comes out with bow & arrow and does puja to Maha Kala. Retires to a chair on the lawn. Four white skeleton-masked dancers come out and dance before him. As they go in, four animal-masked dancers come out with a sword each and dance and go in. They are followed by four giant-masked dancers (2 blue and 2 red) who repeat the act. Then the black hat dancer does some puja (tantric) to the black cloth covered evil spirit and dances alone with his bow & arrow.

4. Thirteen giant-masked dancers – most of them carrying weapons and some vajra – and nineteen animal- & bird-masked dancers dance in a circle. The giants (not the animal-masked dancers) attack the evil spirit with their weapon one at a time (the black cloth has been removed and it looks like a little child). Again, they all dance in a circle. The stag (Drag-d Mar Chham choreographed by Guru Padmasambhava) comes out and dances, sitting before the evil spirit. The movements are so lovely and graceful! Later, he cuts the evil spirit into pieces. He joins the other dancers; they all dance and go into the Gompa.

5. Few black hat dancers, four warriors and all the six jesters (‘achar’ in Tibetan) dance and go in. Clown-masked buffoons are part and parcel of such religious festivities.

6. Giant- and animal-masked dancers come out and dance, the first with swords and the latter with Vajra. They all go in and come out and go in after another round.

7. All the about 37 black hat dancers come and dance in a circle. The main dancer comes out and dances within the circle of dancers. Later, he throws various evil things (picking them up one after another from near the Maha Kala), after reciting mantras, in the western direction. It includes an egg and shooting of an arrow. As the dance goes on, Maha Kala is taken and burnt at a distance. The dance ends, as the remnant pieces of Maha Kala (the woven top gear, the wooden base, etc.) are taken around the gompa, thrice. One head lama chants prayers upon the converted wooden base of Maha Kala. The background music group and those at the entrance of the gompa, all line up on the lawns and he again chants mantras. On another side, on a raised triangle of sand, (painted black), tantric designs are drawn with coloured powders. Probably, fire will be lit up, as wood was lying beside. It was 5.30 PM and getting dark. Hence returned to Hotel Yak & Yeti.

There was a mela on the lawns of the gompa. The usual stuff – eateries and general shops.

Thursday December 12 1985:

Missed the Namok bus; hence had to catch the bus from Mangan at 11 ½ AM. Not a single vehicle was seen to ply in this direction. Reached Gangtok by 3.30 PM.

Phodang Map

G- Gompa; S- School, Y – Yak & Yeti Hotel & also bazaar , S&E – South, & East

P&C- Power House & Cottage Industries. Arrow marked North Sikkim Highway leads to Mangan & further north.

Map of Phodang Gompa

Rectangle structures – buildings & houses; Circles – were musicians were seated;

the curved tree is above the lawn.

Expenditure Statement

Dec. 07 1985 Gangtok-Mangan bus fare (without ticket, of course)	10.00
Tea at Phodang	00.50
Dinner at Assam Hotel, Mangan (rice & chicken curry)	12.00
Dec. 08 1985 – Singhik Advance paid to Bihari Hotel	25.00
4 Singada & tea Ordinary lunch Tea & 2 eggs 2 Philips pen torch batteries 3 biscuit packets 2 groundnut packets Dinner – 3 sukha roti, subji and tea	09.00 09.00 03.00
Dec. 09 1985 Postal stationery at Mangan Post Office	01.00
Lunch at Assam Hotel, Mangan (chicken curry & rice)	12.00
6 santhula fruits (kamala orange)	02.00
Tea Dinner – 4 sukka roti, dhal, double omelet
Dec. 10 1985 Singhik Dak Bungalow rent @ 3.50 x 3 nights Tips to Bokhok Lepcha Bus fare to Phodang (again, without ticket) Lunch at Yak & Yeti Hotel, Phodang (chicken curry & rice) 1 full plate momok and tea 1 peg drinks Dinner (rice & saag) (greens)	10.50 04.50 06.00
Dec. 11 1985 Tea Biscuit at Gompa Dinner at Yak & Yeti (rice, dhal, subji)	03.00
Dec. 12 1985 Tea and zaro (Tibetan bread) Room rent for 2 nights at Yak & Yeti, Phodang Food & drinks (listed above) 1 plate momok Bus fare to Gangtok from Phodang 2 colour rolls @ 55 x 2 + developing @ 15x2	30.00 25.00 03.00 05.00 171.00 140.00 311.00

P.S.: As I had extended my stay without informing the office, my boss, Mr. T.K. Kaushik, Asst. Information Officer, had contacted the district authorities and made a fuss!

Gangtok-Mangan-Singhik-Chunthang-Lachung-Yumthang

In Miles:43 - 2 - -12 ¼ - -13 ½ - - 9 ¼ = 81 miles / 129 ½ kms. (via North Sikkim Highway)

Gangtok – Dikchu – Mangan – Yumthang

In Miles:17 - - 13 - - 38 = 68 miles / 109 kms. (via Dikchu)

Gangtok – Chunthang – Lachen

58 ¼ - 19 = 77 ¼ miles / 124 kms.

Gangtok – Phensong – Phodang

27 kms. – 11 kms. = 38 kms.

Gangtok – Mangan – Singhik

-67 kms. – 4 kms. –

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