Andamans, after 30 years
- S. Balakrishnan
To visit a place after a long gap of 30 years raises a mixed feeling. Feeling of excitement of meeting old acquaintances and seeing familiar places, mixed with apprehension that the place might have changed a lot – even beyond recognition - due to the so-called developmental activities. Naturally, a lot of stress built up within me when my family decided to visit the Andamans in June 2009. I had lived in Port Blair as a bachelor way back during 1978-80, for about 2 ½ years.
As the plane touched down at Lamba Line airport, now called Veer Savarkar airport, I could see the changes. Whereas there were only two flights a week from Calcutta and later one from Madras (see, even these names have changed to Kolkatta and Chennai), now there are many flights in a day from these two cities. Junghli Ghat was then the limit of Port Blair. Now I could see concrete jungle extending even beyond the other side of the airport. Bathu Basti has emerged as equivalent to the Port Blair of olden days.
A lot of places have now been thrown open for tourists. Let me start with Mt. Harriet, the highest point in South Andamans, which was then a desolate place. My friends and I slogged for hours to reach the point, trekking up & down. Now, from Port Blair, you ferry across along with the motor vehicle and ride up & down within minutes. The thrill of trekking was missing. So I and my kids decided to reach the Point once again. We took the treacherous old trekking route for going up, and took the road down, in all 16 kms. It was a rewarding experience – leeches tasting our blood, we were mesmerized by the chorus song of some insects; spotted some birds; saw the fresh water dam and pipeline created by the British to fill up ship tanks – hence the name Panighat; a huge tree spreading its aerial roots across a vast area (like banyan tree); the scenic North Point from up above (as depicted in the twenty rupee currency note); beautiful flowers and leaves. At two points, we were wondering whether to abandon our trekking adventure, because fallen tree trunks and bushes had blocked the way entirely. Determined, we cleared those hurdles. Wish the Tourism Dept. would make it trekable and also encourage tourists. A memorial has been built at the spot where Sher Ali killed Governor General Mayo. His grand daughter visited Andamans (in 1979?) all the way from UK to see the spot where he was attacked; she remarked then that her grandfather had come to the islands only to help the prisoners, but was unfortunately mistook and killed.
Unless one had VIP connection (especially in the Defence Force), one could not visit Ross Island then. So, despite being just across the Aberdeen Jetty, I could never visit Ross Island during those days. It was a dream-come-true visit, a long cherished one. The lady guide, Ms. Rao, was friendly with the birds and animals there. Deers, squirrels, ducks and peacocks responded to her call.
Similar was the case with Viper Island. The island was under lease to a coconut cooperative society and outsiders were not allowed entry. Luckily, I had a friend (Mr. Natarajan) working as an auditor in the co-operative department. Hence I could visit the Island with my friends. We had the entire island to ourselves almost for a day and roamed all over it, even using the antic urinal built by the British, unlike the short, conducted tour this time when we could see only the gallows.
In those days, Chatham Island was also a closed place. I could go even near Chatham Island only when it was devastated by a fire in 1978 or 79. I could pick up some unburnt match stick splinters, which are still in my collection. This time we could go around the ancient saw mill leisurely and see the whole process – right from logs being unloaded from ferries to the last stage of cutting them to different sized planks. The Forest Museum there was also interesting.
Snorkeling was unheard of then. We enjoyed this unique experience at North Bay, Havelock and Red Skin Island. It was an unforgettable sight watching thousands of jelly fish float by in the waters of Mahatma Gandhi National Marine Park, on the way to Red Skin Island from Wandoor and back.
A lot of improvement has taken place in & around Cellular Jail. The museum within vividly showed the harrowing tortures inflicted upon our valiant freedom fighters. It was during my stay there that it was declared a National Memorial by the then Prime Minister, Shri Morarji Desai. I had taken a few snaps of the function with my Agfa Click III (box) camera, and the black & white prints are still good. Here I must mention about the sound & light show; we watched the Hindi version and felt it was a bit lengthy, monotonous and boring. It could be trimmed a little and made short & sweet.
From the newly-created Veer Savarkar Park in front of the Jail, the night view of Marina Park and South Point area resemble the famous Queen’s Necklace (Marine Drive) of Mumbai. It wore a deserted look some 30 years back, when I used to go for evening strolls, to kill my bachelor’s time and scribble some poetry. The Science Centre at South Point is a new attraction, but many models are not working.
At this point, I remember the two theatres that helped me kill my time– Light House and Mount Batten. They used to screen Hindi, Tamil, English & Telugu movies. On Sunday mornings, Bangla movies were shown at Light House. Whereas Light House cinema hall is still there in a battered condition, Mount Batten has been razed down to build a hotel. I remember enjoying an old Tamil film in a touring theatre near Lamba Line and walking back all the way with my friend Anthony (now AE, APWD). He was lamenting that there were too many songs in that old film and was cursing me!
I also used to spend a lot of evening time in the State Library, which has now shifted to another building.
With the advent of satellite TV / Cable TV and with their second-to-second live coverage of events in any corner of the world, it is but natural that the halls were closed down. TV sets had not entered the Islands then. The local All India Radio programmes were the only other entertainment. I still remember the mellifluous voice of Tamil announcer Mrs. Vanaja.
There were no auto rickshaws then, which are ubiquitous now in Port Blair. A word about them here – unlike Chennai auto drivers, they are very courteous and willing to go even very short distances for a minimum fare of Rs. 10. Let their tribe increase! We found it very convenient and cheap. All the four of us could squeeze in and travel, of course, evading the police.
Somu Studio, from where I bought the camera, has now shifted from a wooden building near the Ganesh Mandir (which itself was just a small mandap under the tree) to a concrete building opposite my office (Press Information Bureau). I met Ms. Somu and we both shared memories of those days for a while. My another favourite studio was Victory Studio, opposite Masjid. Wish I had visited it; I understand that the son of the then owner now runs the studio. A portrait of mine was blown up and displayed to attract (!) potential customers. It was here I befriended Mr. Ponnusamy, now working with Zoological Survey of India. I could meet him, but in a distressing personal situation.
The situation was similar or even worse when I visited my landlord’s house, a little opposite Radha Gobind Mandir. Both Mr. Rao and his wife had passed away. His mother, an elderly lady, had passed away just three months ago only. Their daughter had lost her husband. It was very saddening. Initially, I could not locate the house, as it had undergone much change, as elsewhere in Port Blair. I had copies of some earlier photos and with that I just knocked at a door and asked the lady, who opened the door, if she could recognize the persons in the photo and where they were living. Lo, she herself was in the photo and it was immediate bonhomie and rapport. They narrated the harrowing tsunami experience and it was gooseberries all over my body. This particular road was a scary one for me to return home in the nights. After Raj Niwas, it would be desolate with very few houses. Now, what with the development of the Dilathamman Tank into Gandhi Park, it was buzzing with activity. A lot of houses have also come up along the road.
The bazaar has also changed a lot. From what used to be a lazy bazaar that would get busy and active only when ships from Chennai, Vizag or Kolkatta arrived, it is now thriving even with gold & jewellery marts, mini supermarkets stocking almost everything and anything. Earlier, whenever a friend returned from mainland, we used to give a long shopping list. Now, before reaching Port Blair, when I asked some friends if they needed anything, they said everything was available there itself. However, later I felt I could have brought by flight some fresh vegetables and fruits. The prevailing rate of vegetables (Rupees per kg.) during our visit in June 2009 was – Tomato 20, brinjal 40, potato 22, Onion 18!
We could not, however, visit Dhanikari dam, the cute, little dam that I had once visited in my earlier days. Whereas other areas/islands had been thrown open to tourists, this has been closed to tourists. We need to take special permission, I was told. We could not afford to waste our time running behind officials.
I could see some improvement at Chidiyatapu, the southernmost point of South Andamans. Whereas only the PWD Guest House was there, now a park had been developed and a road nearby lead somewhere along the coast, from where one could view sunset. It was at the guest house that I met the world-renowned ornithologist Dr. Salim Ali in Jan. 1979. Such a humble person that he sent a thanks letter in his own handwriting for sending him his photos that I took with my box camera!
But the changed landscape at Wandoor was shocking. The tree trunks that were lying half buried in the water, that added mystic beauty to the beach, were missing. Also, many big trees that stood majestically had been cut down, presumably for the landing of President’s chopper. It looked barren. What an atrocious thing to do! However, the trip to Red Skin Island soothed my feelings.
The Mini Zoo wore a deserted look, as there is a plan of shifting it to Chidiyatapu. My family members could not see the famous Narcondum Hornbill or the Megapod. However, the antics of Nicobar macaques and closeup view of white-bellied eagles compensated our disappointment. I remember visiting a horticultural farm/botanical garden in Haddows area, where juice & squash bottles were sold, but I could not locate it this time.
Samudrika, the marine museum, is an added attraction. The Zoological Survey of India museum presents a pathetic look; very old collections. Not impressive. Anthropological Museum, earlier functioning in Dilanipur, is now near Middle Point. Worth visiting.
Some of the old vestiges that gladdened me are the Kattabomman and Ananda Bhavan Hotels. There was also a vegetarian hotel at the Light House theatre building, which is missing now. Ananda Bhavan was then only a snacks bar, serving Bengali sweets/savouries and good coffee. My friend Chinnathambi (then a govt. Tamil teacher in Mangluttan, now AHM, Bambooflat) would visit me in the office and preferred ordering savouries & coffee from Ananda Bhavan. When I met the present day owner and reminisced about the earlier days, he was very happy and extended preferential treatment to my family. We also booked for the Ross-Viper-North Bay trip in their ferry MV King Cruise and had a courteous & special care. For the first time, I tasted Nicobari fish curry, which was more or less like a Kerala recipe, with lots of coconut in it. This is a new development – popularizing local recipes.
The son of the owner of Kattabomman Hotel was excited to meet an old-time customer. He said for the past 45 years they have been continuing to serve on banana leaf, which was becoming costlier. Situated just opposite my office, it was very handy to stuff in my breakfast and reach office. A very popular eatery then, it is maintaining its tradition.
We had the life-time experience of seeing Jarawas in their natural habitat as we took the road journey to Baratang. I never appreciated the idea of intruding into the tribal area. As the Great Andaman Trunk-road project had just begun then and was in progress in bits & pieces, I had once undertaken the ferry journey to Rangat; it was through the mangrove-bordered creeks, a very smooth and enjoyable journey. I even saw some dolphins swim along for quite some time. To my great disappointment, I learnt that this service is no more available. In Baratang, visit to Parrot Island, mud volcano, and limestone caves are new spots available for tourists these days. These were unheard of in those days.
Carbyn’s Cove has added more resorts to it. At this point, I remember the stroll I and my friend Nazrudeen (now A.E., APWD, Mayabunder) took on a Sunday in 1979. A strange idea struck us, and we walked all the distance from Port Blair to Carbyn’s Cove and back to Port Blair via Lambaline! When we met this time, he also cherished this walkathon trip!
The Burmese Buddhist Pagoda at Pyongkychang has changed to the worst. It has clearly been encroached upon, and stands crammed between houses. The big hall attached to it is entirely missing. A strange scene could be seen there – people sitting in trance. The Murugan temple was being renovated. And the Radha Gobind Mandir remains almost the same.
Netaji Club has disappeared, I understand, in a devastating fire in 1998.
We had the beaches to ourselves at Neil & Havelock Islands. Wished we had stayed for 2-3 days. Way back in 1978, I had made a hurried trip to Havelock. During those days, ferry service to these islands was rare. So I had to return by the same ferry, spending some 1-2 hours only there. Not much to remember and no photos either, as I had not bought a camera then.
Milk and its by-products were rare items then. Maybe only the very top echelons of the Island Admn. enjoyed them. For ordinary people in Port Blair, it was a dream. We had to depend only on Amul milk powder. Now, I could observe milk being available easily. Of course, it costs Rs. 22/litre. It is a mixture of milk & milk powder, I was told.
Visited Mangluttan Rubber Plantation (P) Ltd. and the factory. No visits were organised way back in 1978-80. While visiting my friend Chinnathambi, working as Tamil teacher in Mangluttan, I had just sneaked into the factory and taken some snaps. There was no one to explain the process. Similarly, visit to Sippighat farm was also educative and interesting. Well maintained.
At nights, the distant humming sound of generator could be heard clearly. It is surprising that despite a manifold increase, diesel generator is still the only source of power supply. Though there was fan in my office, I never had a fan at my house (rather, the truth is, I could not afford it either). Now air conditioners have proliferated. The Administration can try renewable sources of energy, like solar, wave & wind. While at Joggers’ Path, we felt like being lifted by the wind; it was so strong. Also at South Point. If natural gas is found in the Andaman sea, that can also be used.
Similarly, there seemed to be perennial shortage of water supply. We found water at Panighat tank, built by the British. Maybe it could be revived, at least to supply to the vessels. Though costlier, saline water treatment plant (as in Chennai) could be established.
Transport has improved a lot, I could observe. Even private bus operators are plying. In the inter-island ferries, which have increased in numbers, islanders are charged very moderately, whereas tourists are charged heftily. Whereas even private two-wheelers were rare then, the streets are now crowded equally with private four-wheelers. We were mislead by the helicopter service announcements, which is mainly meant for officials and the islanders.
Similarly, thanks to the arrival of cell phone, communication has dramatically improved. I could smoothly and clearly talk to a friend in Campbell Bay (Great Nicobar), though I could not visit it this time. Similarly, supply of cooking gas (LPG) in cylinders must have eased the household chore.
Handicrafts sectors has improved manifold. There is so much of variety. But the one thing I loathed was the so-called statues of Jarawas. These models are very crude and an injustice to the handsome Jarawas. The production should be banned. However, I found a beautiful mask of Onges.
Certain things that I missed showing my family are –the notorious centipede that was omnipresent in those days; the cemetery near Andaman Club where Major Bird and other British are buried.
Well, as I write this, it is 30 years since I left the ever-enchanting Andamans and almost a year since we visited last year. Though we stayed for 15 days – too long a period for tourists – we would have loved to stay still further also. As our ship sailed out of Port Blair, the twinkling lights of the ever-expanding Port Blair conveyed a stark reality, a warning - though life in general has improved a lot, development is always at the cost of Nature.
I really miss the Islands. Will I ever get another chance to visit the Islands?
S. Balakrishnan
krishnanbala2004@yahoo.co.in
- S. Balakrishnan
To visit a place after a long gap of 30 years raises a mixed feeling. Feeling of excitement of meeting old acquaintances and seeing familiar places, mixed with apprehension that the place might have changed a lot – even beyond recognition - due to the so-called developmental activities. Naturally, a lot of stress built up within me when my family decided to visit the Andamans in June 2009. I had lived in Port Blair as a bachelor way back during 1978-80, for about 2 ½ years.
As the plane touched down at Lamba Line airport, now called Veer Savarkar airport, I could see the changes. Whereas there were only two flights a week from Calcutta and later one from Madras (see, even these names have changed to Kolkatta and Chennai), now there are many flights in a day from these two cities. Junghli Ghat was then the limit of Port Blair. Now I could see concrete jungle extending even beyond the other side of the airport. Bathu Basti has emerged as equivalent to the Port Blair of olden days.
A lot of places have now been thrown open for tourists. Let me start with Mt. Harriet, the highest point in South Andamans, which was then a desolate place. My friends and I slogged for hours to reach the point, trekking up & down. Now, from Port Blair, you ferry across along with the motor vehicle and ride up & down within minutes. The thrill of trekking was missing. So I and my kids decided to reach the Point once again. We took the treacherous old trekking route for going up, and took the road down, in all 16 kms. It was a rewarding experience – leeches tasting our blood, we were mesmerized by the chorus song of some insects; spotted some birds; saw the fresh water dam and pipeline created by the British to fill up ship tanks – hence the name Panighat; a huge tree spreading its aerial roots across a vast area (like banyan tree); the scenic North Point from up above (as depicted in the twenty rupee currency note); beautiful flowers and leaves. At two points, we were wondering whether to abandon our trekking adventure, because fallen tree trunks and bushes had blocked the way entirely. Determined, we cleared those hurdles. Wish the Tourism Dept. would make it trekable and also encourage tourists. A memorial has been built at the spot where Sher Ali killed Governor General Mayo. His grand daughter visited Andamans (in 1979?) all the way from UK to see the spot where he was attacked; she remarked then that her grandfather had come to the islands only to help the prisoners, but was unfortunately mistook and killed.
Unless one had VIP connection (especially in the Defence Force), one could not visit Ross Island then. So, despite being just across the Aberdeen Jetty, I could never visit Ross Island during those days. It was a dream-come-true visit, a long cherished one. The lady guide, Ms. Rao, was friendly with the birds and animals there. Deers, squirrels, ducks and peacocks responded to her call.
Similar was the case with Viper Island. The island was under lease to a coconut cooperative society and outsiders were not allowed entry. Luckily, I had a friend (Mr. Natarajan) working as an auditor in the co-operative department. Hence I could visit the Island with my friends. We had the entire island to ourselves almost for a day and roamed all over it, even using the antic urinal built by the British, unlike the short, conducted tour this time when we could see only the gallows.
In those days, Chatham Island was also a closed place. I could go even near Chatham Island only when it was devastated by a fire in 1978 or 79. I could pick up some unburnt match stick splinters, which are still in my collection. This time we could go around the ancient saw mill leisurely and see the whole process – right from logs being unloaded from ferries to the last stage of cutting them to different sized planks. The Forest Museum there was also interesting.
Snorkeling was unheard of then. We enjoyed this unique experience at North Bay, Havelock and Red Skin Island. It was an unforgettable sight watching thousands of jelly fish float by in the waters of Mahatma Gandhi National Marine Park, on the way to Red Skin Island from Wandoor and back.
A lot of improvement has taken place in & around Cellular Jail. The museum within vividly showed the harrowing tortures inflicted upon our valiant freedom fighters. It was during my stay there that it was declared a National Memorial by the then Prime Minister, Shri Morarji Desai. I had taken a few snaps of the function with my Agfa Click III (box) camera, and the black & white prints are still good. Here I must mention about the sound & light show; we watched the Hindi version and felt it was a bit lengthy, monotonous and boring. It could be trimmed a little and made short & sweet.
From the newly-created Veer Savarkar Park in front of the Jail, the night view of Marina Park and South Point area resemble the famous Queen’s Necklace (Marine Drive) of Mumbai. It wore a deserted look some 30 years back, when I used to go for evening strolls, to kill my bachelor’s time and scribble some poetry. The Science Centre at South Point is a new attraction, but many models are not working.
At this point, I remember the two theatres that helped me kill my time– Light House and Mount Batten. They used to screen Hindi, Tamil, English & Telugu movies. On Sunday mornings, Bangla movies were shown at Light House. Whereas Light House cinema hall is still there in a battered condition, Mount Batten has been razed down to build a hotel. I remember enjoying an old Tamil film in a touring theatre near Lamba Line and walking back all the way with my friend Anthony (now AE, APWD). He was lamenting that there were too many songs in that old film and was cursing me!
I also used to spend a lot of evening time in the State Library, which has now shifted to another building.
With the advent of satellite TV / Cable TV and with their second-to-second live coverage of events in any corner of the world, it is but natural that the halls were closed down. TV sets had not entered the Islands then. The local All India Radio programmes were the only other entertainment. I still remember the mellifluous voice of Tamil announcer Mrs. Vanaja.
There were no auto rickshaws then, which are ubiquitous now in Port Blair. A word about them here – unlike Chennai auto drivers, they are very courteous and willing to go even very short distances for a minimum fare of Rs. 10. Let their tribe increase! We found it very convenient and cheap. All the four of us could squeeze in and travel, of course, evading the police.
Somu Studio, from where I bought the camera, has now shifted from a wooden building near the Ganesh Mandir (which itself was just a small mandap under the tree) to a concrete building opposite my office (Press Information Bureau). I met Ms. Somu and we both shared memories of those days for a while. My another favourite studio was Victory Studio, opposite Masjid. Wish I had visited it; I understand that the son of the then owner now runs the studio. A portrait of mine was blown up and displayed to attract (!) potential customers. It was here I befriended Mr. Ponnusamy, now working with Zoological Survey of India. I could meet him, but in a distressing personal situation.
The situation was similar or even worse when I visited my landlord’s house, a little opposite Radha Gobind Mandir. Both Mr. Rao and his wife had passed away. His mother, an elderly lady, had passed away just three months ago only. Their daughter had lost her husband. It was very saddening. Initially, I could not locate the house, as it had undergone much change, as elsewhere in Port Blair. I had copies of some earlier photos and with that I just knocked at a door and asked the lady, who opened the door, if she could recognize the persons in the photo and where they were living. Lo, she herself was in the photo and it was immediate bonhomie and rapport. They narrated the harrowing tsunami experience and it was gooseberries all over my body. This particular road was a scary one for me to return home in the nights. After Raj Niwas, it would be desolate with very few houses. Now, what with the development of the Dilathamman Tank into Gandhi Park, it was buzzing with activity. A lot of houses have also come up along the road.
The bazaar has also changed a lot. From what used to be a lazy bazaar that would get busy and active only when ships from Chennai, Vizag or Kolkatta arrived, it is now thriving even with gold & jewellery marts, mini supermarkets stocking almost everything and anything. Earlier, whenever a friend returned from mainland, we used to give a long shopping list. Now, before reaching Port Blair, when I asked some friends if they needed anything, they said everything was available there itself. However, later I felt I could have brought by flight some fresh vegetables and fruits. The prevailing rate of vegetables (Rupees per kg.) during our visit in June 2009 was – Tomato 20, brinjal 40, potato 22, Onion 18!
We could not, however, visit Dhanikari dam, the cute, little dam that I had once visited in my earlier days. Whereas other areas/islands had been thrown open to tourists, this has been closed to tourists. We need to take special permission, I was told. We could not afford to waste our time running behind officials.
I could see some improvement at Chidiyatapu, the southernmost point of South Andamans. Whereas only the PWD Guest House was there, now a park had been developed and a road nearby lead somewhere along the coast, from where one could view sunset. It was at the guest house that I met the world-renowned ornithologist Dr. Salim Ali in Jan. 1979. Such a humble person that he sent a thanks letter in his own handwriting for sending him his photos that I took with my box camera!
But the changed landscape at Wandoor was shocking. The tree trunks that were lying half buried in the water, that added mystic beauty to the beach, were missing. Also, many big trees that stood majestically had been cut down, presumably for the landing of President’s chopper. It looked barren. What an atrocious thing to do! However, the trip to Red Skin Island soothed my feelings.
The Mini Zoo wore a deserted look, as there is a plan of shifting it to Chidiyatapu. My family members could not see the famous Narcondum Hornbill or the Megapod. However, the antics of Nicobar macaques and closeup view of white-bellied eagles compensated our disappointment. I remember visiting a horticultural farm/botanical garden in Haddows area, where juice & squash bottles were sold, but I could not locate it this time.
Samudrika, the marine museum, is an added attraction. The Zoological Survey of India museum presents a pathetic look; very old collections. Not impressive. Anthropological Museum, earlier functioning in Dilanipur, is now near Middle Point. Worth visiting.
Some of the old vestiges that gladdened me are the Kattabomman and Ananda Bhavan Hotels. There was also a vegetarian hotel at the Light House theatre building, which is missing now. Ananda Bhavan was then only a snacks bar, serving Bengali sweets/savouries and good coffee. My friend Chinnathambi (then a govt. Tamil teacher in Mangluttan, now AHM, Bambooflat) would visit me in the office and preferred ordering savouries & coffee from Ananda Bhavan. When I met the present day owner and reminisced about the earlier days, he was very happy and extended preferential treatment to my family. We also booked for the Ross-Viper-North Bay trip in their ferry MV King Cruise and had a courteous & special care. For the first time, I tasted Nicobari fish curry, which was more or less like a Kerala recipe, with lots of coconut in it. This is a new development – popularizing local recipes.
The son of the owner of Kattabomman Hotel was excited to meet an old-time customer. He said for the past 45 years they have been continuing to serve on banana leaf, which was becoming costlier. Situated just opposite my office, it was very handy to stuff in my breakfast and reach office. A very popular eatery then, it is maintaining its tradition.
We had the life-time experience of seeing Jarawas in their natural habitat as we took the road journey to Baratang. I never appreciated the idea of intruding into the tribal area. As the Great Andaman Trunk-road project had just begun then and was in progress in bits & pieces, I had once undertaken the ferry journey to Rangat; it was through the mangrove-bordered creeks, a very smooth and enjoyable journey. I even saw some dolphins swim along for quite some time. To my great disappointment, I learnt that this service is no more available. In Baratang, visit to Parrot Island, mud volcano, and limestone caves are new spots available for tourists these days. These were unheard of in those days.
Carbyn’s Cove has added more resorts to it. At this point, I remember the stroll I and my friend Nazrudeen (now A.E., APWD, Mayabunder) took on a Sunday in 1979. A strange idea struck us, and we walked all the distance from Port Blair to Carbyn’s Cove and back to Port Blair via Lambaline! When we met this time, he also cherished this walkathon trip!
The Burmese Buddhist Pagoda at Pyongkychang has changed to the worst. It has clearly been encroached upon, and stands crammed between houses. The big hall attached to it is entirely missing. A strange scene could be seen there – people sitting in trance. The Murugan temple was being renovated. And the Radha Gobind Mandir remains almost the same.
Netaji Club has disappeared, I understand, in a devastating fire in 1998.
We had the beaches to ourselves at Neil & Havelock Islands. Wished we had stayed for 2-3 days. Way back in 1978, I had made a hurried trip to Havelock. During those days, ferry service to these islands was rare. So I had to return by the same ferry, spending some 1-2 hours only there. Not much to remember and no photos either, as I had not bought a camera then.
Milk and its by-products were rare items then. Maybe only the very top echelons of the Island Admn. enjoyed them. For ordinary people in Port Blair, it was a dream. We had to depend only on Amul milk powder. Now, I could observe milk being available easily. Of course, it costs Rs. 22/litre. It is a mixture of milk & milk powder, I was told.
Visited Mangluttan Rubber Plantation (P) Ltd. and the factory. No visits were organised way back in 1978-80. While visiting my friend Chinnathambi, working as Tamil teacher in Mangluttan, I had just sneaked into the factory and taken some snaps. There was no one to explain the process. Similarly, visit to Sippighat farm was also educative and interesting. Well maintained.
At nights, the distant humming sound of generator could be heard clearly. It is surprising that despite a manifold increase, diesel generator is still the only source of power supply. Though there was fan in my office, I never had a fan at my house (rather, the truth is, I could not afford it either). Now air conditioners have proliferated. The Administration can try renewable sources of energy, like solar, wave & wind. While at Joggers’ Path, we felt like being lifted by the wind; it was so strong. Also at South Point. If natural gas is found in the Andaman sea, that can also be used.
Similarly, there seemed to be perennial shortage of water supply. We found water at Panighat tank, built by the British. Maybe it could be revived, at least to supply to the vessels. Though costlier, saline water treatment plant (as in Chennai) could be established.
Transport has improved a lot, I could observe. Even private bus operators are plying. In the inter-island ferries, which have increased in numbers, islanders are charged very moderately, whereas tourists are charged heftily. Whereas even private two-wheelers were rare then, the streets are now crowded equally with private four-wheelers. We were mislead by the helicopter service announcements, which is mainly meant for officials and the islanders.
Similarly, thanks to the arrival of cell phone, communication has dramatically improved. I could smoothly and clearly talk to a friend in Campbell Bay (Great Nicobar), though I could not visit it this time. Similarly, supply of cooking gas (LPG) in cylinders must have eased the household chore.
Handicrafts sectors has improved manifold. There is so much of variety. But the one thing I loathed was the so-called statues of Jarawas. These models are very crude and an injustice to the handsome Jarawas. The production should be banned. However, I found a beautiful mask of Onges.
Certain things that I missed showing my family are –the notorious centipede that was omnipresent in those days; the cemetery near Andaman Club where Major Bird and other British are buried.
Well, as I write this, it is 30 years since I left the ever-enchanting Andamans and almost a year since we visited last year. Though we stayed for 15 days – too long a period for tourists – we would have loved to stay still further also. As our ship sailed out of Port Blair, the twinkling lights of the ever-expanding Port Blair conveyed a stark reality, a warning - though life in general has improved a lot, development is always at the cost of Nature.
I really miss the Islands. Will I ever get another chance to visit the Islands?
S. Balakrishnan
krishnanbala2004@yahoo.co.in
