Indira
Point ….. To & Back
S. Balakrishnan
This narrates one of my dreams
blooming at last - visiting the Southernmost Point of India, i.e., Parson’s Pygmalion
Point of Great Nicobar Island in Andaman & Nicobar Group of Islands of
India [Now, Indira Point]. The rough travel jottings were
done from 18th April to 5th May 1979. It is interesting
for the finer details I have noted down.
………………………………………………………………………………………………………………
For my other stories on Indira
Point, pl. refer:
Jan 06,
2010
(The
Point was later renamed Indira Point, after a visit to that place by Smt.
Indira Gandhi, the then Prime Minster of India.) M.V. Onge, the inter-island
ship plying between Port Blair and the Nicobar Group of Islands, ...
May 06,
2009
Once a
happy reminder of my dream visit to Indira Point, the Southernmost Tip of
Indian soil, now they remind me of the devastating Tsunami of December 26,
2004, which has not only devoured that Land's Tip but also the ...
Apr 23,
2009
The
place was earlier called Parson's Pygmalion Point. After a visit to the place
by the then Prime Minister of India, Mrs. Indira Gandhi, it was renamed Indira
Point. Campbell Bay is the main and only town of Great Nicobar ...
Apr 30,
2009
Indira
Point in Great Nicobar Island -Photo:Southernmost Point of India -. Posted by
Balakrishnan at 11:59 PM · Email ThisBlogThis!Share to TwitterShare to
Facebook. Labels: Indira Point photo ...
1
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I am reproducing (data entering) in
Sept. 2011 without much change and with grammatical errors as it is (so that
readers can have a hearty laugh), but with some additions here & there,
which are in […..] brackets, as explanatory notes. While reading, pl.
remember that in those days there were no cell phones, internet, E-mail, cable
/dish TV, not even TV, daily newspapers, etc., in the Islands; even landline
phones were very, very rare in that remotest island of Great Nicobar. {For
geographical & technical Notes, pl. see another item in my blog}
[ This sketch, technically speaking
‘line drawing’, was scribbled by me in 1979 in the notebook in which I was
writing these travel jottings]
………………………………………………………………………………………………………………
After a long hesitation and
thinking, at last I applied for earned leave from April 20 to May 10 1979,
sometime in March 1979 itself. Again I reminded our Regional Office (Press
Information Bureau - PIB) in Calcutta [now Kolkata], in the first week of
April. But till I started from Port Blair to Campbell Bay, no sanction.
April 18, 1979 Wednesday:
The sailing program [I had used
this US spelling way back in 1979 itself!] was announced over All India Radio,
Port Blair, and in The Daily Telegrams [the local administration’s mouthpiece].
Two consecutive sailings up to Campbell Bay & back.
After waiting [in the queue] the
whole forenoon on 18th April and again in the afternoon for about an
hour, I got the ticket (Bunk Class Rs. 39.40, one way) after much persuasion
and, to say, begging those bastards [sorry for the foul language, but I must have
been really frustrated]. I knew Mother Nature won’t let me down, since [as]
I am going to adore and worship Her. In the meantime, I was collecting details
about the places [see separate post in my blog] and planning also.
I got the pass within ½ a day on 16th
April 1979 from Development Commissioner’s office (to visit Nicobar Islands,
though Great Nicobar Island itself is not a restricted place, as it is not
inhabited by Nicobari tribe in a major way), a great achievement, I suppose. Nowadays, I know the trick, ways
& means to get things done, of course, cursing those connected persons
[persons concerned] vehemently. [I had taken oral permission to leave office
for this purpose.]
On 18th, my boss [Mr.
P.K. Majumdar, Assistant Information Officer, Press Information Bureau,
Ministry of Information & Broadcasting , Government of India, Port Blair]
was ‘kind’ enough to grant ½ a day’s Casual Leave (18th forenoon) and
also permission on 17th and
18th (afternoon). I suppose he thinks once I leave on a long trip,
he could play as he wishes. Anyhow, I got my leave sanctioned by him.
Loaned Rs. 75/- from my friend
Antony [Jr. Engineer, Andaman Public Works Department (APWD), my contemporary
at Virudhunagar S. Vellaichamy Nadar Polytechnic - 1972-75 Batch, where I did
my Diploma in Commercial Practice and he did his Diploma in Civil Engineering,
and whom I met accidentally at Gurusamy Provisions Stores in Port Blair. It was
thro’ him my contacts’ / friends’ circle widened there] and bought 10 black
& white film roles for Rs. 70! Got two travellers’ cheques of Rs. 50/- each
[a great amount for me in those days] from State Bank of India. On loan, I got
Antony’s suitcase and with wishes of him and his relative Mrs. & Mr.
Hasparaj (with whom he was staying), Mr. Ponnusamy (of Memory Studio), Mrs.
& Mr. Avadani, Mr. Meeran & others (of Dy. Accountant General Office -
DAG), left the DAG Colony on 18th evening. Purchased buns,
groundnuts, plantains, biscuits and, of course, chloroquine tablets 12 nos.!
[anti-malarial drug]
Got addresses of known people in
the Southern Group, from Antony, Mr. Haspa Raj, and Mr. Murugesan, School
Teacher (?) (lived nearby).
Packing started at 8 PM and ended
at 10 PM. wrote a letter to Ma (in Madras) at 10.30PM (posted in the next
morning). Lay down at 11 PM.
April 19 1979 Thursday:
Mr. Murugesan woke me up at 4.20
AM, sharp. Got up at 4.30 AM. [I think I slept at his house, so that he would
wake me up even if I had overslept so as not to miss the ferry. I did not have
an alarm timepiece.] Had bath and started at 5.20 AM. Even at 4.30, the dawn
was quite bright and the happy, energetic birds were twittering happily.
Reached Choulunga (marine) Wharf at 6 AM.
The ship MV Onge [Onge is an
aboriginal tribe, now restricted only to Little Andaman Island] sailed only at
8.45 AM, instead of 7AM (it is rather unusual for inter-island ferry to start
sailing after such a delay; instead, they would as well cancel the sailing and
re-fix the next day). This is teachers’ sailing and hence had to start
punctually! The next sailing also being teachers’ sailing, I hope (though I
don’t wish) to return on 4th May as scheduled. [Teachers’ sailings are meant mainly for
mainland people working as teachers in far-flung islands, to go to mainland on
start of summer vacation, and to get back to duty at the end of vacation].
The first snap was of the Tourist
Home (Megapode Nest) complex in Haddows area. This was not actually serial no.
1 of the roll. [ I number it a1] No. 1 was Chatham Island [where Asia’s oldest
& biggest sawmill was established].
After some time of the sailing,
there was nothing to see, but the blue sea with shining diamonds. Hence I sat
to write this.
I saw a foreigner whom I later
understood is a West Germanian (sic) working in the Calcutta University
researching on Indian snakes. He has come on duty to Little Andaman and will be
returning in the sailing in which I too shall be returning to Port Blair. He
told me they are harassing too much by ‘procedures’. He shall go to South
Africa to work there and shall be coming on leave to India, now & then.
‘Onge’ berthed at Hut Bay Jetty at
4.30 PM. This new jetty and the break water were inaugurated by Prime Minister,
Mr. Morarji Desai, on Feb. 12, 1979 [during which period Cellular Jail was
dedicated as National Memorial. I was witness to the function and had taken
some snaps.] There is a memorial for those workmen who passed away while
constructing the ‘L’ -shaped breakwater.
About 8 hours running to Little
Andaman. I feel little dizzy, but hope to manage well. Took buns, plantains in
the noon.
With the camera [Agfa Click III
‘box camera’ & black & white roll; colour roll was unimaginable /
unaffordable and no processing facility in Port Blair] I set out of the ship.
Lovely Nicobari lasses were seen carrying plantains and papayas. How innocent
their faces are!
Took a shot of the logs (bounded
(sic) together, the way they were brought from forests through
creeks). There was a lovely Nicobari stall full of bunches of plantains &
plantains, papayas and, of course, tea. Shot this. Went around the village. Two
lambs were standing on the ‘Y’ shaped cement [concrete] blocks [groynes for
breakwater construction]; snapped them.
Went to the main street
(black-topped road). Purchased ‘Yera’ glass tumbler for Rs. 3/- from a co-operative
stores (since in the ship’s canteen they have no tumblers.) Further, it will be
like a souvenir from Little Andaman. Had a (chaya) tea for 25 P in a Bengali
tea stall. Onion is Rs. 3/kg and potato Rs. 2.80/kg. Ah, just double the price
at Port Blair! I just enquired for that sake.
Returned to ship at 7 PM after
going (a)round here and there. Had
plantains and bun. Ah, I must tell one more thing - I overheard this while
moving around; some Tamilians were talking and passing by my side, like this “It
seems some Anglo-Indian has come” “Is
this that fellow (pointing at me, and
thinking that I do not know Tamil) “No,
no (not him)”. Very interesting, is it not?
The scene in the ship is very interesting.
Bunches of plantains hanging all around, and papayas resting in the benches.
Everywhere boxes of all shapes & sizes, beds, tins, bags and people lying,
sitting, reading, talking, playing cards, eating … oh, such a variety.
I was tuning my [tiny transistor]
radio in the bunk; but ‘grrr…..” was the only sound I received. Then someone
told me, because of the heavy power lines here, you won’t get it. When I tuned
it at the outside, Port Blair station could be received very poorly. Likewise
Delhi news also. So many South-East Asian Stations’ interruption was heavy.
It was to sail at 9.30 PM. Now it
is 9.45. Don’t know if it had sailed. At 10 PM I heard it had sailed off Hut
Bay. From Onge, I could count about 20 lights only (tube as well as ordinary
bulbs) at Hut Bay.
I remember another interesting
happening when I was shooting at lambs at Hut Bay. A Tamilian lady was
remarking “Hey, what this guy is up to? Taking photos of lambs!) [Ennatha foto
edukrangalam, hm..]
20th April 1979
Friday:
Got up at 3.20 AM to view Sunrise.
I was foolishly looking at the south, [later, I committed the same mistake at
Parson’s Pygmalion Point / Indira Point also] and then I saw colorful sky in
the East. Only then I realized my folly. It seems either the sun is angry with
me or shy to appear before me without purdha (face covering cloth, i.e.,
clouds). Until 5.30 AM, I could not see him fully, but then it (sun) was too high
and did not look so nice. I could take only one shot with lovely (?) clouds. By
then, why, even well before that (may be at around 4 AM), the light of the
lighthouse at Car Nicobar was visible.
Onge anchored near Rit-töp [original name in Nicobari] [Titop / Tee Top
- the modern name] Bay at around 6.20 AM. Oh, the beach was bordered with coconut
trees; it looked as if a coconut forest is there! The silvery beach and all
that, oh! The stevedoring operation started at 8.30 AM and after breakfast (no
bath) I reached the shore by raft at 10.30 AM. (Rs. 4.50 for ferry service from
Onge to shore & back)
Ran to catch an APWD truck and reached, with
some difficulty, the Headquarters at 11.45. Had meals at a Tamilian hotel (at U-rèk-ka / Malacca
village) Rs. 3/- and by walk reached Tim-lö
/ Tamalu
/Tamoolo
village (a distance of about 4 km), taking wonderful shots (do not know how
they would turn up when developed) all the way.
Had a lift in a scooter of a
Sardarji and reached Pum-pai /Chukchucha village, where Ellen Hinengeo Ltd (EHL) [a
cooperative setup of Nicobaris] is situated. After impatient waiting there, got
lift again on an APWD truck and safely and well before time reached Tee Top
Jetty at 2.45 PM. Thanks to the Sardarji and the lorry driver. Had water (so
thirsty I was) and a tea. By ferry boat reached Onge at 3.30 PM.
Plantain is very rare in Car
Nicobar; papaya also.
The ladies are shy while I
approached for snaps. Children are fond of it (as elsewhere) and pose happily
and readily with full of smiles. One lad didn’t permit at the first instance to
take a shot of women doing the flooring for a house. Cricket has come even to
Car Nicobar! [Satellite telecast was available there, I think, on limited
scale]. While going in lorry, I saw a man and his lovely (wife) lady bicycling.
While taking a photo of a small girl when she was breaking a nut (doring nut,
she said), she offered me a nut. It was nice, of course. One lady has asked for
a copy of the little baby (don’t know whether he/she, for the baby was wearing an
underwear). I was lucky to take those rare shots described in the Tamil book
‘Nicobar Islands’. I am so lucky to have shot two snaps of men carrying a wild
boar (I suppose festival is approaching fast). In the launch, I saw a lovely
cage for a parrot, made of the main stem of coconut leaves. So wonderful &
artistic, you know! I am sad I could not
snap it. As soon as landed, we had to run for catching the lorry.
I very much wanted to visit Ha-nyôch / Mus village, but could not. There is a hotel run by a Nicobari
near Headquarters. There is a circuit house at Headquarters. D.C.’s (Deputy Commissioner)
& other offices are there only. I met a Tamilian who is a dance master teaching
Manipuri & Bharatha Nattiyam to the students.
Beehive-shaped huts are very rare, probably 1%
only. All others are on stands [stilts]. Quite a few houses were built of
bricks. Wooden-built houses are common.
I could see one or two ladies with
bare chest, but did not dare to take photos.
Black-topped road runs all around
the Island, it is said. I saw some three, four Hindu temples. Also at Little
Andaman.
Ships berth at Malacca during South-West
monsoon (May-Oct.) and at Sawai (Tee Top) during North-East monsoon (Oct. to
May).
This I’m writing, sitting in my
berth (No. 46, Deck) from since (sic) I reached; now it’s nearing 5 PM. I’m
hungry, though I had a packet of biscuits a little while ago. The rest I‘ll
write in the night. I want to take shots of sunset. Ok, then.
Went to bed very soon, probably at
7 PM or so. There were heavy clouds. Hence only one shot of sunset.
Saturday April 21 1979:
Not a very sound sleep. I woke up many
times. Sun rise, I couldn’t see. I saw Teressa Island at 5 AM. Anchored at 6 AM
Within a short time, lovely odis [Nicobari
country boats with side rig] came, numbering about 12 or so. They ranged from
very small ones where 3 could sit and big ones where about 15 could sit, with
their loads. How daring these little Nicobari boys are! 3 small boys came
rowing in their smallest odi, so gently.
How brave of them! There was a man (Nicobari) like Tara Singh. So far, I
could see only one Nicobari wearing spectacles! It was a lovely sight to see
odis; don’t know how it would be when we travel. There is no jetty at Teressa.
The ship didn’t call alt Chowra as per timetable. I was anxiously waiting to
see Chowra. After about 1 ½ hours, the ship sailed for Katchal.
Reached Katchal Jetty (RCC jetty)
at 11 AM. Since I heard the ship would be berthed till 1 PM, I rushed to take a
bath. I myself drew water from a small well of 3 ft. in diameter and about 10
ft. deep. Had a refreshing bath. Thanks to the Telugu man [who suggested this,
I suppose]. At about 11.30 AM, the bus left for some place, loaded fully. I
couldn’t get tender coconut. Demand for even this, eh! The policemen refused a
Nicobari (who was drunk) to take into the ship some coconuts. It seems we can’t
take many no. of coconuts and much quantity of coconut oil from tribal areas. That
Nicobari started shouting angrily, while his little boy was looking on pitily
(sic) [pitifully]. Later they allowed him, but he just refused and took it back
home!! At the same time I saw some persons known to the policemen and men of
big bosses carrying sacks of coconuts and bottles of oil to ship. Ah, that is
the way! The ship left Katchal at 1.10
PM.
The way to Nancowry is so charming.
It is like this:
The ship passed thru’ the passage in-between
Nancowry and Kamorta Islands. There are so many bays on the way to Kamorta
jetty. Such a wonderful harbour indeed! Reached Kamorta at 2.45 PM. Availed a
ferry to Champion (say about 500 metres away). Though the fare is only 45 P
(one way), since the man had no change on both the ways, I had to pay a total
of Rs. 1.50, instead of 90 P.
Within 10 minutes reached the
Champion Jetty (wooden jetty). Kamorta jetty is RCC and has been opened in 1970
only.
On the Champion Jetty, areca nuts
were being weighed in sacks. A little away, the nice smell of dried copras was
filling in the air. Manula Mitai Ltd.’s (shortly marked on the jute sacks as
MML) [cooperative venture] lovely light-green building stands prominently near
the jetty. I went into the village a short distance.
Oh boy! So lovely lasses were there
(as Mr. Murugesan sir told me)!! One was sitting in the swing, but refused to
pose for a snap. Pity! Some others were sitting near the beach on their boat,
but as soon as they saw me with a camera, turned off their faces. One was
walking alone, but I didn’t dare to take a photo. Since I thought it’s not wise
& gentlemanism (sic)
[gentlemanly]. There is a church with a wooden cross inside it. Then, the grave
of one Rani Isloyn with her belongings - a steel trunk, enamel coated (China
ware) eating plate, bowls, glass tumbler, etc.
It seems they bind the roof of
Nicobari
house
this type of house first and then
shift it, for I saw such a readymade one (roof) kept on the ground.
Caught the ferry and returned to
Kamorta at 4.05 PM. You know, as soon as the business people alighted down on
the jetty, they started selling the vegetables. Within a while, drumstick was
out of stock; lemon costs 33 P each; onion (big) at Katchal Rs. 4/kg. One
Glucose Asoka brand biscuit packet costs Rs. 1.25 at Little Andaman, whereas at
Port Blair, the small petty shop-keepers sell at Rs.1.10 only.
Went to a Hotel (Tamilian) and took
3 dosais, 2 chapatis and 2 cups of tea. The tea tasted nice with ginger, etc.
That is why I took 2 cups. This came to a total of Rs. 2.10. Tea costs 30P/cup.
It seems
there is a heavy demand and shortage of any type of vegetable. Even for pulses
(dhal) the people have to depend on M/s Akooji Traders. The hotel man told me he
had to bring drinking water from a far off place in Odi. [Remember, there was
no bottled drinking water then!] Don’t know how people live there! (In Katchal
I saw a big tank-like thing with iron sheets all around the rectangular pitch
(sic) [pit] of about 10’x5’ size where
water was there. Don’t know whether it’s a well, or just a storing tank. Many
of the bunk/deck passengers bathed at Katchal).
The ship
moved from Kamorta at exactly 5 PM. After reaching a distance of about 1 or 1 ½
km., i.e.., after passing thro’ another passage, no. 2 in the sketch, it
anchored. I heard it will sail from here at around 10.30PM only, so as to reach
Campbell Bay in the early morning and not in the very early dawn. I wonder why
not it instead as well stay at the jetty itself!
For more
than ½ an hour I saw fire in another island; may be in the forest. (No. 3 in
the sketch)
Dropped a
packet of biscuit into my stomach in addition to some plantains, at 6 PM. Now,
when I write this it is 8 PM. Due to the hot air in the place, and due to the
movement of the ship, etc., I feel head ache. I need a sound sleep. So, Good
Night then.
Hope to
take some nice shots of sunrise, provided the clouds are away from my path.
Sunday, the
22nd April 1979:
Onge
berthed at last at Campbell Bay Jetty at 7 AM. It seemed a long way to reach
APWD office, probably because I had luggage. Mr. Ganesan, Principal Engineer,
APWD, and his family had come. He is on duty to inspect. After some waiting,
went to Mr. Thirunavukkarasu’s quarters where 3 others are also put up. Had a
bath. Water scarcity everywhere. No pipeline and the water has to be brought
from a distant well. The whole body is so aching. I am dog tired. Even winking
is painful. The eyes soar (sic) [sore] like anything. Due to the fan
heat in the bunk. The whole day I was just lying, half awake and half asleep.
At about 3.30 PM, set out and went this way and that way, to Murugan Temple and
jetty. I met the Syndicate Bank Clerk, Mr. Moolon, near the jetty.[He is a new
recruit from mainland India, and came in Onge to join duty here] Onge has sailed off to Port Blair at 5 PM.
Swallowed one chloroquine tab. in the morning. Had a tender coconut and 3 dosais. Now it is
7.30 PM & I feel like lying down.
(Parson’s Pygmalion Point)
Monday 23rd
April 1979:
Last night,
I just slept in the verandah. Then after 9, I went to one teacher’s house who
had left by Onge.
Had a sound
sleep. Since the window pans (sic) [panes] haven’t been fixed, it was cold.
There was no mosquito trouble at all. Got up as usual at 5.30 AM. Almost I had
recovered from the aches, and felt quite easy and relaxed. But I was lazy and
took my bath after breakfast. Went with Mr. Raghulan to his Section, then to
Mr. Bhowmik’s [at Andaman Public Works Department - APWD; referred by Antony,
my friend in Port Blair] Returned with them for meals [lunch]. Read some old
magazines. At 5 PM went up to circuit house, then till a little distance in the
road near jetty, when a poem struck me:
Where Beauty
Lies…
True beauty
is Nature’s beauty
Thus
admiring I was strolling
And it was
an enchanting evening
In the
West, the Sun was painting.
Suddenly
something pricked my bare foot
I tried to
pull that thorny plant up by the roots.
‘Oh, no,
no. Wait a bit, my boy’, cried the plant
And asked
the reason for my rare walk
‘Oh, that’s
none of your business’, I snapped;
‘I just
walk about enjoying nature’s beauty’.
Oh, that is
great! But what a pity!
Don’t you
think I am a tiny bit
Of that
Nature’s beauty?
Beauty lies
where you find it.
Yes, the
fault is in my eyes.
Thinking so
I returned home.
And,
whenever I pass by that side,
I water the
thorny plant from the river nearby.
… S. Balakrishnan
1979
Campbell Bay, Great Nicobar.
Was sitting
in the jetty for a while. Overheard an interesting chat from which I could
sketch out a drama. [But haven’t noted it down]
Snap of
sunset from Campbell Bay Jetty
I was much
astonished to see a kind of marine life near jetty which left behind its way a
green coloured light-like thing, like a jet plane leaving smoke behind it.
Met Mr.
Nedumaran, local leader of AIADMK party (All India Anna Dravida Munnetra Kazhagam) and
enquired about the places of interest here. He told me that Raja Rajan’s stone [
inscription?] was a false story created by some Tamilian labourers. My! How
disappointed I was. What a foul game to play on!
A party was
arranged by Mr. Raghulon. Mr. Thirunavukkarasu gave an entertaining show. Went
to bed at 10.30 PM and very soon the generator set stopped breathing and went
to soundless sleep. I won’t write more about the party, for it is not nice on
my part [neither do I remember now]. [Diesel generators are the only source of
power generation in Andaman & Nicobar Islands, even today!]
Tuesday 24th
April 1979:
Got up late
at 6 AM, since I went to bed very late. After bath, breakfast, caught the 11 AM
bus and reached 35 km. at 12.45 noon. On the way got down at 4 places since the
wooden bridges are too weak. There was a marriage (Malayalee, Hindu groom &
Christian bride), which is the talk from Campbell Bay to 35 km. The driver
& conductor got down, ate the tiffin and then the bus started again. Had
meals at a hotel at 35 km. (Rs. 2.50). Was discussing with M/s Durairajan,
Sethu (of Reclamation & Rehabilitation Orgnaisation - RRO) about Pygmalion
Point [now called Indira Point] and night stay. In the evening everything was settled with
everyones’ help. Had a walk. Then interviewed Mr. Ramaiah’s family for 2 hours [this
appeared in Sainik Samachar - English - in 1979]. Dinner with Mr. Sethu
(chapathi of their mess & omelette of his own preparation). Slept at 9 PM.
Wednesday
25th April 1979:
Woke up at
4 AM. Got up at 4.30 AM. Took bath, etc. Didn’t take breakfast. Started at
around 7 AM with M/s Balaiah and Pandiyan (Veeraian). Went by a shortcut and
again met the road. Reached Galathea River at 8.15 AM. Rested at the hut. Very
nice scene. High tide. Waited till 1 PM & then all crossed at around 2 PM.
Reached Nicobari hut (Chingen village), had toddy & dabs (coconut) (3.15
PM). Stones, so smooth & lovely [Where, at what point?]. Then reached Lighthouse at 5 PM. Had some
‘dabs’ on the way. Was so enjoyable. Snapped sunset at 5.25 PM. “Oh dear
Nature, Thank You so much”, I murmured, put some sand in my mouth and drunk
(sic) [drank] the saline water.
Uppuma was
prepared out of the ‘ravai’ (sooji) and we ate and lay down at 6.30 PM itself,
and also the men there, since no power is there.
Thursday 26th
April 1979:
In the
night there was drizzling for a while. I slept in the verandah, but no so cold
at all; how, I wonder!
Woke up at
4 AM. Waited at sea shore for the sun rise. As usual, there were clouds and it
came the other side. [I was foolishly gazing at the south!] Took a shot, but
not so satisfied. Then went up the lighthouse. The scene was so charming. What
a strong structure. 1/2" inch iron sheets. [This structure withstood the tsunami of 2004,
despite being so close to the epicenter; but it is now not on land, but
surrounded by 5 metres of sea water!] Took many shots there. Balaiah snapped me
near the beach, me wearing the shorts, cap, etc. Don’t know how it’ll come.
Took fantastic (how do you say before developing) shots from the top. Range of light is 18 to 22 sec. miles.
Started at
7 AM. Had tender coconuts on the way and chapattis (how thick!) with chaya at
Forest Dept. men’s house. [As we took the beach route] saw ship wreck, stones polished
by the waves. Bought toddy at Holchu’s [Nicobari] hut [at Chinge hamlet]. After
some waiting, crossed the nallah [stream in Hindi, though Galathea is a
perennial river, the only one found in Nicobar Group] with dinghy (country
boat) at 1.15 PM. Reached 35 km. at 3.15 PM. Took a bath. Snapped some shots of
the helping souls. Evening stroll. Dinner with Mr. Sethu and slept at 8 PM.
[For
further information & interesting details, one may please refer to
balakrishnan-balusblog.blogspot.com/.../trip-to-southernmost-point...
balakrishnan-balusblog.blogspot.com/2009/.../trip-to-indira-point.ht...
Friday the 27th
April 1979:
Got up at 4.15 AM. And
by RRO (Reclamation& Rehabilitation Organization) truck reached 30 km. Chatted
there and by the same truck reached Campbell Bay at 10.15 AM. The truck could
not cross the bridge (Prem nallah) since it was under repair and had to wait
for more than 1 hour or so.
Enchased Traveler’s
Cheques, chatted with Mr. Nedumaran. After lunch, was lazily lying for some
time. Went to medical [hospital] for showing the toe [what happened, I don’t
remember now].Then chatted in the room. Little walk.
Saturday 28th
April 1979:
Went with Mr.
Thirunavukkarasu at 7 AM to 24 km. breakfasted (sic) at 18 km. Took some shots,
met people there; very moving stories. Returned at 12.30 noon. Had two glassful
of pure milk. [Cow’s milk is very, very rare in Andamans. We used only milk
powder. Probably here the settlers were given cows to rear, hence the opportunity].
Ah, so refreshing! I enjoy going like this, meeting people, knowing their
problems, etc. [as if I can solve them! What a shame!]
Sunday the 29th
April 1979:
In the
evening at 4 PM, went to Chengappa Beach along with M/s Raghul & Bhowmik
and reached jetty, on the way beachcombing, and returning to room at 7 PM.
Finished writing letters to Ma, Mano [sister], Suren [A.S. Surendran, my
polytechnic classmate], Ms. Usha Abraham [my ex-boss in M/s Dadha
Pharmaceuticals Ltd., {both in Madras /now Chennai}] and myself [to my Port Blair address. [Do I
still have this letter?]
Monday 30th
April 1979:
I tried to
go by Kamakshi, a private cargo ship. Then I heard Onge is coming on 2nd.
So I gave up the idea. Posted the letters [obviously they would be carried to
Port Blair by the same Onge by which I would have sailed and then onwards to
mainland]. Very lazily passing the time. Getting so tired and hungry.
Tuesday 1st
May 1979:
Got up from
bed at 8.15 AM only. In the noon took some snaps. I missed seeing Shompens [Shy
Shompens, as they are known, who live only in Great Nicobar] who had come to
collect rations. Gossiped with Mr. Nedumaran & others. There was shower in
the late evening. Monsoon has started.
It seems Onge is coming on 3rd morning. Of the 25 settlers’
families, only 17 or so are coming. Others heard the state of affairs here, it
seems.
Wednesday 2nd
May 1979:
Remember
this day? Just one year back arrived in Port Blair [to join duty]. Finished
reading detailed project report on breakwater (200 x 950 m.) at Campbell Bay.
Very interesting. How many surveys - wind, soil, sand, water, wave, etc., &
calculation of cost very minutely!! I must get such reports from Mr. Hasparaj
& read. In the evening, went to market and purchased eatables both for me
and the mess [of friends with whom I was staying].
Thursday 3rd
May 1979:
Got up at
5.40 AM, whereas my watch showed only 5 AM. Finished bath, etc., and started
from house at 7 AM. Just then Onge arrived, ½ hour late. The usual hallah-bullah
of boarding in & out, and loading & unloading took place and the ship
left at 10, 1 ½ hrs. beyond scheduled time. Took a last snap of jetty and sent
some flying kisses to dear Campbell Bay where, I may not visit again probably.
For a long time I was gazing at Great Nicobar Island. Slept from 10 ½ to 1 PM.
Boring. My head has started giving all sorts of pain. I feel better take it off. It’s so cloudy everywhere
and rains every now & then. I suppose we are entering Camorta thro’ the
other way. Till 5 ½ PM we haven’t reached there. At this rate, I wonder when
we’ll reach Port Blair. Very shortly, say at 6.15 PM, we reached & anchored
at Kamorta. It was drizzling, so I dropped the idea of going for a stroll and
tiffin. Bought 2 small size breads for Rs. 2. No tea. So swallowed one as it
was and had some plantains. Went to bed at 7.30 or so.
Friday 4th
May 1979:
Had somewhat
a sound sleep. Woke up at 4 AM. At about 4.30 sailed off from Kamorta and
reached Katchal at 6.30 AM. A jeep was unloaded and sailed off at 8.15 AM. Had
3 hrs.' sound sleep and woke up at 11.30 AM. Onge is sailing, sailing, and sailing; at all probability, I hope, we
will touch Car Nicobar at 5 PM or so. It is not calling at Teressa. So I missed
seeing the fleet of Odies. From 11.30 till 6 PM had enough - vomited thrice,
severe head pain (sic) [ache] and what not. At 6 PM, Onge reached Car Nicobar.
I changed dress and lay down at 6 PM itself.
Saturday 5th
May 1979:
Though woke
up at 4.30 AM, got up at 7 only. Bad luck! I couldn’t get tea this time also.
Had a glass full of water, instead. Almost till the ship reached Port Blair, I
was just lying down, half awake and half asleep. Ship berthed at 2 PM, instead
of 10 AM, as scheduled. I landed at 2.10 PM. Thus ended my trip to worship
Nature from the southernmost tip of India.
Thank you
Mother Nature. Hope to see you in some other new place, shortly. So long then.
Had lunch,
reached office, read the letters, memo [for proceeding out of headquarters
without seeking specific permission], bathed, gave the film rolls for
developing, went to Dy. Accountant General colony [quarters]. Reached house at
7.5 PM, cleaned almost every place. How much of dust! Went to bed at 10.45 PM. Not
a sound sleep till 1 AM; because of the memo, eh? [The first memo in service,
hence could be scared]. Or the rolling effect of the ferry?
-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.
Read my
posting -
Great
Nicobar Island
-
Geographical Details Gathered by S. Balakrishnan in 1979
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