S. Balakrishnan
e-mail: krishnanbala2004@yahoo.co.in
Given below is my diary notings about my trip to North Andamans in Dec. 1979, 30 years back. I have reproduced it almost without any change. It gives a picture of life of the then Andamans
==========================================================
Destination North Andamans
Diary Noting of My trip to North Andaman - December 1979
Dec. 5 1979 Wednesday Port Blair
Anthony (Virudhunagar S. Vellaichamy Nadar Polytechnic mate, Dip. in Civil; Junior Engineer in Andaman PWD) met me in the office (Press Information Bureau-PIB), as he did yesterday, and informed that his Assistant Engineer (AE) had sanctioned his Casual Leave (CL). A hurdle was crossed over. My CL, too, had been sanctioned.
Dec. 6 1979 Thur.
Anthony again met me in the office and confirmed what he said yesterday. His colleague, Mr. Soor, JE, would take over his charge. I heaved a great sigh. I enjoyed the evening snacks; it was more enjoyable as it was at his cost.
Bought a notebook to keep a record of my historic voyage, 2 Indu 125 ASA film rolls for my camera (Rs.8 each). With these, I have a total of 4 ½ rolls. I lied to Mr. Somu (of Somu Studio) that I had very carefully kept aside two rolls for my visit to Rangat, but my friends took them away. He pitied me sincerely and readily handed over two slow-speed rolls. This is the second lie.
The first was for getting the casual leave sanctioned. It went like this - I had to go to Rangat for some very urgent, unavoidable, personal work. The fact was that I did not have the heart to lose my balance CL stock of 4 days (out of 12 per annum). This is December and all the government servants have this CL fever at the yearend.
Further, I desperately wanted to see the Northern Group; I had visited (at least stepped on) five of the twelve inhabited islands of Nicobar Group (down south). I wanted to have some beforehand knowledge of the places to be visited. I rushed to the Library but found nothing useful.
Consumed a laddu, the lame excuse being the proposed trip. While returning to my palace, I walked joyously, full of plans of my visit, what all things to be taken, which one to wear, what dress to pack up, amount to be carried and so on. The sky too was in a gay mood and drizzled. Enjoying the drizzle, I walked down towards my house opposite Radha Gobind Mandir.
Dec. 7 Fri.
Anthony rang me up at the office to tell that tickets have been purchased (arranged is the right word, I suppose). Deck Class Rs.4.75. Anthony is notorious for punctuality; anyhow we met in the evening. Packed things. Dinner at Anthony's place. Ponnusamy (he was then working in Memory Studio and later joined Zoological Survey of India as photographer) got another roll for me for Rs. 8. Heard Pradeshik Samachar - Ms. Saira assured that MV Little Andaman would sail for Rangat via ... … from Fisheries Jetty at 5.30 AM the next morning. Relieved. Slept at Jegannathan's house (of Co-op. Dept.?), so that he would wake me up even if I had over slept.
Dec. 8 Sat-
Woke up at 4 AM. Not a sound sleep - nightmares that I had missed the ferry. Bath, etc., over in a hurry. Started at 4.45 AM. Reached the jetty by 5.05. I was scared when I saw the ticket - it had on it the name of labourer Palaniswamy and his wife. Luckily they did not notice, or it is a routine thing. Sailed at 5.40, instead of 5.30. Yamuna also sailed at the same time, via Long Island.
Sun had come up quite high. TSS Nancowry was seen at a distance, hazily. Not much rush. Bambooflat range appeared so lengthy. Saw the lighthouse at North Bay at close range. It is said that the bodies of two children of a former Chief Commissioner were washed ashore here while bathing at Carbyn's Cove. Felt seasick very soon. Though ate nothing, vomited twice. Was just sitting, closing my eyes. Entered the creek portion of the journey. That is why we chose this ferry instesad of Yamuna. Fantastic creation of Nature. Mangroves so lush and thick and as if carefully groomed. Took a snap.
In the morning Pradeshik Samachar at 7.55 AM, Ms. Saira announced the departure of MV Little Andaman & Yamuna and that MV Little Andaman would return to Port Blair the next day evening. It was reassuring to hear that announcement while safely and actually sailing onboard. I never noticed Yamuna after that. Saw a Bush Police hutment on the bank at Laldikari.
Reached Baratang at about 11 AM. The jetty had been inaugurated only some six months back. A brand new bus was waiting at the jetty to pick up passengers. Glad to see an elephant logging (do not know how it felt me clicking it). Wheat flour, oil, etc., were unloaded. A new group of policemen landed there. Anthony had a hearty lunch, whereas I munched a few biscuits only, scared of throwing up again. Biscuits, small packets of mixture (50 Paise), cigarettes, paan, etc., are sold onboard. Brisk sale & fat earning. Sighted only a single flying fish. No water in the washbasin. Never dared to enter the deck class toilet. Most indecent people - spitting, throwing wastes and so on.
A lovely Bengali damsel - like Zeenat Amman in the movie Sathyam Sivam Sundaram - was onboard. Wish I had snapped her but I was scared her male co-travellers might get angry and beat me up. Left Baratang for Kadamtala at about 11.30 AM. Bengali people sang some songs (folk) with gungroo (anklet) on their feet.
I felt somewhat better, though head continued aching. When I went the first time to Havelock in Dec. 1978, I suffered much and decided never to undertake any sea voyage. But very soon, April 1979, sailed to far off Campbell Bay. Suffered most and again vowed never ever. Now, again, I had decided so, but I am sure I would again and again sail. This is like what they call labour pain promise, I suppose.
Earlier, before reaching Baratang, the boat hit a hidden rock beneath - thud, thud, thud. All got scared. They cursed the crew in the most abusive language I had ever heard, and thought of ways of escaping, if the ferry sunk.
Otherwise, the ferry kept sailing smoothly, at times quite close to the mangrove shores. The parrot-green creek water shone like thousands of diamonds as the sunrays peeped in through the thick mangrove canopy. Never sighted a crocodile, to my disappointment. The whole scene was so mesmerizing and soothing. The scenery was more or less the same, throughout. Saw a narrow gap (strait) between two islands. What I learnt in geography at school, I viewed now.
Reached Uttara Jetty at 1 PM. Here also a bus waited for the passengers. And also a working elephant. Clicked the scene - the elephant, bus, signpost of the jetty, Bengali settlers waiting near the bus.
The Jetty, part of the Great Andaman Trunk road, had been inaugurated by Chief Commissioner SMK on May 27, 1979. (Remember the drum beating by DT newspaper?) The board reads - Great Andaman Trunk road - Kadamtala-Bakultala Section 44 KM. Declared open by CC SMK on 27th May 1979.
This point, Uttara Jetty, is Zero KM. From here, Camp 10 is 19 KM, Camp 15 - 28 KM, Bakultala -44 KM, Rangat -52 KM and Mayabunder 122 KM, by road. The jetty has a slope for vehicles to get in and out of the ferry Kadamtala, a passenger-cum-vehicle & cargo carrier. Such a jetty was noticed at Baratang also, as the GAT touches both these places on the same island.
We left Uttara by 1.20 PM. Oralkatcha Jetty was noticed at 1.25 PM. We watched a fish of 4 ft. length jump out of the water to a height of 10 feet, covering a distance of about 25 feet. Might be surmai fish. Saw a launch towing a raft. Near Guitar Island, wooden log raft was towed by a launch, two men standing on it. Guitar Island looked exactly like that; lovely beach.
Touched Long Island at 3.15 PM. Very lovely sandy beach, many houses, a sawmill, boat building yard, etc. Had tea and pakoda in a Tamilian Hotel, a long way from the jetty. Sacks of rice, oil barrels, etc., were unloaded for a long time. A foreigner, stuck up at Havelock, was brought to Long Island by some departmental boat. He boarded there. Left Long Island at 3.45 PM and the ferry entered the open sea.
Reached Rangat (Nimbutala Jetty) at 5.30 PM. Yamuna had already arrived there. A bus waited there, as elsewhere. 40 Paise for Rangat proper from Rangat Bay Jetty. After literally starving onboard, ate heartily at a Malayalee hotel. Hot special dosa and chutney. Husband and wife pair runs this hotel, with their residence attached to it. Being payday (weekend), labourers had drinks in the hotel. A Ranchi wife served drinks to her husband and friends. However, later, the lady of the hotel did not permit some others to have drinks there. A wine shop is nearby. Bazaar is big - a bakery with a popcorn machine also!
Went to Mr. Aboo's house. We had to wait for him a while. He took us by jeep to Rest House. It was already full; the Asst. Executive Engineer, APWD, had no quarters. So he was staying there. CBI officials were also there. Bathed, and slept in the verandah itself. Luckily, no mosquitoes, nor was it cold, despite being December. The DSP, CBI, and his colleagues were sharing frightful ghost stories. Really scary and mysterious.
Dec. 9 Sun - Got up at 4 AM exactly. Had hot tea. On foot reached the bus stop. Met Mr. J.C. Rao (Asst. Co-op. Inspector). One bus left for jetty full with passengers. Our bus came at 5.30. As we reached the jetty, MV Little Andaman was preparing to leave for Port Blair. Proceeded further by bus to Pitcher Nallah. Heavy but lovely fog.
Mr. Ignatius and his family were not there. They had gone to Rangat. [Ignatius and Anthony are batch mates and my contemporary at S. Vellaichamy Nadar Polytechnic, Virudhunagar, Tamil Nadu. Whereas I studied Diploma in Commercial Practice, they did Civil Diploma -1972-75.] For Anthony the main aim of the trip was to collect money lent by him to Ignatius.
So we had breakfast at Mr. Bansal's house. He is Asst. Engineer, APWD. Ms. Saroja Bansal is a hospitable lady and a good host. Their son, Master Puneet, is a nice, courteous boy.
By 10 AM, we went to the nearby Billyground, probably 2 KM. It is also called Hari Nagar. From the temple on a hillock, had a fantastic view. Paddy fields surrounded by hills all around. Only one paddy crop annually. Jay Bangladesh settlers live here. A lad, I talked to, had lost his father. He reached here some 15 years back with his mother, uncle and other relatives. Land was allotted some 10 years back. It seemed to me that the settlers are a lazy lot, a laidback group. Huts are still in the same tattered condition. Plenty of cattle. Milk was selling @ one rupee per pound (1/2 a kg. Horlicks bottle). Due to water shortage, only one crop could be raised. Vegetables are grown. Plantain and areca nut plantations are raised, they said, but I could not see any. Not much of coconut trees either. Some cash crops are also grown. However, no scarcity for drinking water. Plenty of perennial sources are there that can supply throughout 24 hours. Water taps are seen by the side of the streets. Billyground (billy=cat in Hindi) has a school, hospital, and a market. Rosagulla is famous; with a fair number of Bengalis around, it is but natural!
Returned, bathed and after lunch walked up to Thoraktang. We noticed Mrs. & Mr. Ignatius returning in a bus, so went to their house.
Dec. 10 Mon. -
Went to Nimbudera by PWD truck at 6.30AM. Walked from road to the hillside. Two streams join together. Filter tank constructed, but water is directly supplied. Plenty of leeches. Again boarded the bus to reach Pitcher Nallah. It was full with students to Billyground, Swadesh Nagar and Rangat.
After breakfast, went to Thoraktang. Watched elephants logging. Seven logs are loaded onto a truck. A female elephant had lost its calf, attacked by another calf, I was told. Saw loco lines and lovely hutments. Wooden bridge under repair. After lunch, we three talked of our hostel days.
Dec. 11 Tue -
To my disappointment, proposal to go to Mayabunder was cancelled. My actual aim was to travel to the northernmost place, Diglipur, as I had already travelled to the southernmost point of not only the Island Group but also of India, i.e., Parsons Pygmalion Point in Great Nicobar Island (renamed Indra Point, after her helicopter hopping visit there). If not to Diglipur, we must at least visit Mayabunder. Watched fish being cleaned for cooking.
Went by PWD truck to RRO No. II and reached there by 11 AM via Betapur. Could not go ahead to Panchavati, 2 KM ahead. Saw lot of pebbles, uprooted trees. Collected some funny looking twigs from there (still with me). While returning, heard a lady had died at Betapur due to abortion, for want of medical facilities. Sad thing. Watched the process of a hen being (un)dressed for lunch. Being a vegetarian (at home), it was an experience sort of; being a non-vegetarian (outside home), I did eat and relish it. Poor soul of the hen, RIP!
In the evening, left for Mayabunder by bus at 3.30 PM via Billyground, Nimbudera, Webi, Tugapur, etc. Reached Mayabunder by 5.15 PM. Viewed an enchanting sunset behind rows of hills, bay and little islets.
Met Mr. Kunjimohammed, working with Police Radio. No accommodation at Rest House. Met Mr. Paul, JE, in charge of Rest House. Agreed to stay with him itself. Met Mr Vasu, JE. Killed a snake. Tasted rosagulla (pure milk). Met the other JE and went to Jetty. Newly constructed. Went around the market, which wound up by 8 PM. For dinner, took green plantain ( 15 P. each; Rs.2/kg), Glucose biscuit (packet Rs.1.25) and milk. After bathing, slept like a log from 10 PM.
Dec. 12 Wed. -
Woke up by 4 AM. Could not locate Rest House. People said sunrise from that point would be wonderful. Viewed it from Police Radio ground. Went to jetty. The marigold sun peeped out of the sea at 5.40 AM. After taking a few snaps, boarded the bus at 6.15 and reached Pitcher at 8.15 AM, after a 15-minute halt at Nimbudera. Lazily spent the time. Kamala orange Rs.19/12 kg basket, i.e., Rs.1.60/kg. Breakfast at Ignatius house was sweet & spicy paniyarams. Slept for a while; then went and thanked Mr. Bansal and family. Then it was gossip time till 10 PM, about our Polytechnic days.
Dec. 13 Thur.
Had to wake up at 3.10 AM itself. Bus was at 4.20 AM. Ticket Rs.1.30. Crowded after Betapur. Reached Nimbudera at 5.30. Silhouette of trees was so charming. School children for the 9 AM (half-yearly) exam came too early in this bus itself. Next bus might not come in time, hence this ordeal. Poor souls. Sunrise at 5.45 was so wonderful, full like an orange-coloured ball! Never seen such a magnificent sunrise. Hence these Islands are famed as Islands of the Marigold Sun. Ferry Yamuna left at 6 AM. As the ferry was not berthed close enough, had to undertake some tricky feats to board it. A woman patient on stretcher was also taken in (probably to GB Pant Hospital in Port Blair).
The sea was rough, so I had giddiness. Touched Long Island at 7.30 AM. In local parlance, this island is called ‘Longaline’. Bought three biscuit packets costing Rs.1.20 each. The petty shop was so far off from the jetty. Not a single shop or tea stall near the jetty. Had to rush. Left at 8.10 or so. A yacht sailing out from Long Island presented a perfect picture. A mass of rock with small trees stood out right in the mid sea. Saw Strait (or Straight) Island, but did not notice any work for a jetty, as reported in the newspaper. Till we reached Havelock, it was a secured bay-like atmosphere - either side hills, so calm and enjoyable. Watched five or six big dolphins swim along for ten minutes. So close to the prow and on either side. Quite fast but at the same time gentle movements and some tricks. Sometime they swam together and at times they outsmarted the ferry’s speed. Smooth like black rubber, pointed fins and nose.
No other halt. It was, at last, a big relief to see the hazy outline of Bambooflat range and Mt. Harriet. Hoped to reach soon, but took more than two hours. Those two hours were terrible hours for me. Did not even look out for the North Bay Lighthouse. All were tired and fed up and some were vomiting. With orange on sale onboard, they were just throwing the peel all around and spitting the seeds. It was so nasty. Not enough seating arrangement. With people sitting and lying, and baggage scattered everywhere, it was very inconvenient. Well, with Rs.4.75, what more can one expect? Made two friends onboard. No idea about canteen onboard; whether it served passengers at all, no idea.
Sighted Ross Island. So glad and relieved. Strength came back. There was a beehive of activity - packing, dressing, combing, and rolling the beds. Berthed at Fisheries Jetty at 2.30 PM. Taxi to Goalghar Rs.15. I shared Rs.5 Eagerly read personal letters. Had refreshing, strong coffee. After a cool bath, met friends, snacks at hotel, dropped a letter to mother in Madras about safe return. Accounts settled - a grand total of Rs.90 ONLY + developing, printing, blowups, etc. Happy and sound sleep in my own place and bed after a week! As they say, big or small, own place is better.
I promise to myself not to travel any more by inter-island ferry, but also feel that I must go alone once again to Diglipur on a leisurely trip to see places and meet people.
Later learnt that on 13th Dec. night, there was a two-second tremor at Mayabunder (Dec. 15 Daily Telegraph, page 4).
Ferry Charge
From To Cabin Bunk Deck Distance in
Nautical Mile
Rupees
PORT BLAIR Rangat Bay 16.40 8.30 4.75 50
Mayabunder 26.75 13.65 7.75 85 (74 Via Long Island & 75 via Havelock)
Diglipur 34.90 17.75 10.15 100
Long Island 13.50 --- 3.90 46
Narcondum Is. 140
East Island 120
South Bay (In Great Nicobar Is.) 300
Long Island Uttara 1.45 --- 0.40
Oral Katcha 5.35 --- 1.55
Rangat 4.70 2.35 1.35
Rangat Bay Mayabunder 11.15 5.65 3.25
Diglipur 19.30 9.80 5.60
Mayabunder Diglipur 8.15 4.20 2.30
Oralkatcha Uttara 4.20 --- 1.20
Rangat 9.55 --- 2.75
Uttara Rangat 6.10 --- 1.75
Port Blair to Baratang – 35; to Kadamtala (Uttaraa Jetty) 50; Oralkatcha – 35; Neil -20 & Havelock – 21.
1 Nautical Mile = 1.852 km. / 6080 ft.
Inchkeith = wrecked ship after Havelock
Baratang – Mud Press Volcano, forestry, elephants, tram (rail) line to transport logs
Bakuntala – East Pakistan refugees settled
Port Cornwallis – Diglipur – settlement ruins of 1792. Saddle Peak 2,402 ft.
Guitar Island – next to Long Island
Egg Island – near Mayabunder harbour
Mayabunder – Karens (Burmese) settled in 1926
Elphinstone Harbour – at the southern end of Middle Andaman
---
Thus ends the Diary Notings of my 8-day trip to North Andaman in Dec. 1979.
========================================================
S. Balakrishnan
krishnanbala2004@yahoo.co.in
e-mail: krishnanbala2004@yahoo.co.in
Given below is my diary notings about my trip to North Andamans in Dec. 1979, 30 years back. I have reproduced it almost without any change. It gives a picture of life of the then Andamans
==========================================================
Destination North Andamans
Diary Noting of My trip to North Andaman - December 1979
Dec. 5 1979 Wednesday Port Blair
Anthony (Virudhunagar S. Vellaichamy Nadar Polytechnic mate, Dip. in Civil; Junior Engineer in Andaman PWD) met me in the office (Press Information Bureau-PIB), as he did yesterday, and informed that his Assistant Engineer (AE) had sanctioned his Casual Leave (CL). A hurdle was crossed over. My CL, too, had been sanctioned.
Dec. 6 1979 Thur.
Anthony again met me in the office and confirmed what he said yesterday. His colleague, Mr. Soor, JE, would take over his charge. I heaved a great sigh. I enjoyed the evening snacks; it was more enjoyable as it was at his cost.
Bought a notebook to keep a record of my historic voyage, 2 Indu 125 ASA film rolls for my camera (Rs.8 each). With these, I have a total of 4 ½ rolls. I lied to Mr. Somu (of Somu Studio) that I had very carefully kept aside two rolls for my visit to Rangat, but my friends took them away. He pitied me sincerely and readily handed over two slow-speed rolls. This is the second lie.
The first was for getting the casual leave sanctioned. It went like this - I had to go to Rangat for some very urgent, unavoidable, personal work. The fact was that I did not have the heart to lose my balance CL stock of 4 days (out of 12 per annum). This is December and all the government servants have this CL fever at the yearend.
Further, I desperately wanted to see the Northern Group; I had visited (at least stepped on) five of the twelve inhabited islands of Nicobar Group (down south). I wanted to have some beforehand knowledge of the places to be visited. I rushed to the Library but found nothing useful.
Consumed a laddu, the lame excuse being the proposed trip. While returning to my palace, I walked joyously, full of plans of my visit, what all things to be taken, which one to wear, what dress to pack up, amount to be carried and so on. The sky too was in a gay mood and drizzled. Enjoying the drizzle, I walked down towards my house opposite Radha Gobind Mandir.
Dec. 7 Fri.
Anthony rang me up at the office to tell that tickets have been purchased (arranged is the right word, I suppose). Deck Class Rs.4.75. Anthony is notorious for punctuality; anyhow we met in the evening. Packed things. Dinner at Anthony's place. Ponnusamy (he was then working in Memory Studio and later joined Zoological Survey of India as photographer) got another roll for me for Rs. 8. Heard Pradeshik Samachar - Ms. Saira assured that MV Little Andaman would sail for Rangat via ... … from Fisheries Jetty at 5.30 AM the next morning. Relieved. Slept at Jegannathan's house (of Co-op. Dept.?), so that he would wake me up even if I had over slept.
Dec. 8 Sat-
Woke up at 4 AM. Not a sound sleep - nightmares that I had missed the ferry. Bath, etc., over in a hurry. Started at 4.45 AM. Reached the jetty by 5.05. I was scared when I saw the ticket - it had on it the name of labourer Palaniswamy and his wife. Luckily they did not notice, or it is a routine thing. Sailed at 5.40, instead of 5.30. Yamuna also sailed at the same time, via Long Island.
Sun had come up quite high. TSS Nancowry was seen at a distance, hazily. Not much rush. Bambooflat range appeared so lengthy. Saw the lighthouse at North Bay at close range. It is said that the bodies of two children of a former Chief Commissioner were washed ashore here while bathing at Carbyn's Cove. Felt seasick very soon. Though ate nothing, vomited twice. Was just sitting, closing my eyes. Entered the creek portion of the journey. That is why we chose this ferry instesad of Yamuna. Fantastic creation of Nature. Mangroves so lush and thick and as if carefully groomed. Took a snap.
In the morning Pradeshik Samachar at 7.55 AM, Ms. Saira announced the departure of MV Little Andaman & Yamuna and that MV Little Andaman would return to Port Blair the next day evening. It was reassuring to hear that announcement while safely and actually sailing onboard. I never noticed Yamuna after that. Saw a Bush Police hutment on the bank at Laldikari.
Reached Baratang at about 11 AM. The jetty had been inaugurated only some six months back. A brand new bus was waiting at the jetty to pick up passengers. Glad to see an elephant logging (do not know how it felt me clicking it). Wheat flour, oil, etc., were unloaded. A new group of policemen landed there. Anthony had a hearty lunch, whereas I munched a few biscuits only, scared of throwing up again. Biscuits, small packets of mixture (50 Paise), cigarettes, paan, etc., are sold onboard. Brisk sale & fat earning. Sighted only a single flying fish. No water in the washbasin. Never dared to enter the deck class toilet. Most indecent people - spitting, throwing wastes and so on.
A lovely Bengali damsel - like Zeenat Amman in the movie Sathyam Sivam Sundaram - was onboard. Wish I had snapped her but I was scared her male co-travellers might get angry and beat me up. Left Baratang for Kadamtala at about 11.30 AM. Bengali people sang some songs (folk) with gungroo (anklet) on their feet.
I felt somewhat better, though head continued aching. When I went the first time to Havelock in Dec. 1978, I suffered much and decided never to undertake any sea voyage. But very soon, April 1979, sailed to far off Campbell Bay. Suffered most and again vowed never ever. Now, again, I had decided so, but I am sure I would again and again sail. This is like what they call labour pain promise, I suppose.
Earlier, before reaching Baratang, the boat hit a hidden rock beneath - thud, thud, thud. All got scared. They cursed the crew in the most abusive language I had ever heard, and thought of ways of escaping, if the ferry sunk.
Otherwise, the ferry kept sailing smoothly, at times quite close to the mangrove shores. The parrot-green creek water shone like thousands of diamonds as the sunrays peeped in through the thick mangrove canopy. Never sighted a crocodile, to my disappointment. The whole scene was so mesmerizing and soothing. The scenery was more or less the same, throughout. Saw a narrow gap (strait) between two islands. What I learnt in geography at school, I viewed now.
Reached Uttara Jetty at 1 PM. Here also a bus waited for the passengers. And also a working elephant. Clicked the scene - the elephant, bus, signpost of the jetty, Bengali settlers waiting near the bus.
The Jetty, part of the Great Andaman Trunk road, had been inaugurated by Chief Commissioner SMK on May 27, 1979. (Remember the drum beating by DT newspaper?) The board reads - Great Andaman Trunk road - Kadamtala-Bakultala Section 44 KM. Declared open by CC SMK on 27th May 1979.
This point, Uttara Jetty, is Zero KM. From here, Camp 10 is 19 KM, Camp 15 - 28 KM, Bakultala -44 KM, Rangat -52 KM and Mayabunder 122 KM, by road. The jetty has a slope for vehicles to get in and out of the ferry Kadamtala, a passenger-cum-vehicle & cargo carrier. Such a jetty was noticed at Baratang also, as the GAT touches both these places on the same island.
We left Uttara by 1.20 PM. Oralkatcha Jetty was noticed at 1.25 PM. We watched a fish of 4 ft. length jump out of the water to a height of 10 feet, covering a distance of about 25 feet. Might be surmai fish. Saw a launch towing a raft. Near Guitar Island, wooden log raft was towed by a launch, two men standing on it. Guitar Island looked exactly like that; lovely beach.
Touched Long Island at 3.15 PM. Very lovely sandy beach, many houses, a sawmill, boat building yard, etc. Had tea and pakoda in a Tamilian Hotel, a long way from the jetty. Sacks of rice, oil barrels, etc., were unloaded for a long time. A foreigner, stuck up at Havelock, was brought to Long Island by some departmental boat. He boarded there. Left Long Island at 3.45 PM and the ferry entered the open sea.
Reached Rangat (Nimbutala Jetty) at 5.30 PM. Yamuna had already arrived there. A bus waited there, as elsewhere. 40 Paise for Rangat proper from Rangat Bay Jetty. After literally starving onboard, ate heartily at a Malayalee hotel. Hot special dosa and chutney. Husband and wife pair runs this hotel, with their residence attached to it. Being payday (weekend), labourers had drinks in the hotel. A Ranchi wife served drinks to her husband and friends. However, later, the lady of the hotel did not permit some others to have drinks there. A wine shop is nearby. Bazaar is big - a bakery with a popcorn machine also!
Went to Mr. Aboo's house. We had to wait for him a while. He took us by jeep to Rest House. It was already full; the Asst. Executive Engineer, APWD, had no quarters. So he was staying there. CBI officials were also there. Bathed, and slept in the verandah itself. Luckily, no mosquitoes, nor was it cold, despite being December. The DSP, CBI, and his colleagues were sharing frightful ghost stories. Really scary and mysterious.
Dec. 9 Sun - Got up at 4 AM exactly. Had hot tea. On foot reached the bus stop. Met Mr. J.C. Rao (Asst. Co-op. Inspector). One bus left for jetty full with passengers. Our bus came at 5.30. As we reached the jetty, MV Little Andaman was preparing to leave for Port Blair. Proceeded further by bus to Pitcher Nallah. Heavy but lovely fog.
Mr. Ignatius and his family were not there. They had gone to Rangat. [Ignatius and Anthony are batch mates and my contemporary at S. Vellaichamy Nadar Polytechnic, Virudhunagar, Tamil Nadu. Whereas I studied Diploma in Commercial Practice, they did Civil Diploma -1972-75.] For Anthony the main aim of the trip was to collect money lent by him to Ignatius.
So we had breakfast at Mr. Bansal's house. He is Asst. Engineer, APWD. Ms. Saroja Bansal is a hospitable lady and a good host. Their son, Master Puneet, is a nice, courteous boy.
By 10 AM, we went to the nearby Billyground, probably 2 KM. It is also called Hari Nagar. From the temple on a hillock, had a fantastic view. Paddy fields surrounded by hills all around. Only one paddy crop annually. Jay Bangladesh settlers live here. A lad, I talked to, had lost his father. He reached here some 15 years back with his mother, uncle and other relatives. Land was allotted some 10 years back. It seemed to me that the settlers are a lazy lot, a laidback group. Huts are still in the same tattered condition. Plenty of cattle. Milk was selling @ one rupee per pound (1/2 a kg. Horlicks bottle). Due to water shortage, only one crop could be raised. Vegetables are grown. Plantain and areca nut plantations are raised, they said, but I could not see any. Not much of coconut trees either. Some cash crops are also grown. However, no scarcity for drinking water. Plenty of perennial sources are there that can supply throughout 24 hours. Water taps are seen by the side of the streets. Billyground (billy=cat in Hindi) has a school, hospital, and a market. Rosagulla is famous; with a fair number of Bengalis around, it is but natural!
Returned, bathed and after lunch walked up to Thoraktang. We noticed Mrs. & Mr. Ignatius returning in a bus, so went to their house.
Dec. 10 Mon. -
Went to Nimbudera by PWD truck at 6.30AM. Walked from road to the hillside. Two streams join together. Filter tank constructed, but water is directly supplied. Plenty of leeches. Again boarded the bus to reach Pitcher Nallah. It was full with students to Billyground, Swadesh Nagar and Rangat.
After breakfast, went to Thoraktang. Watched elephants logging. Seven logs are loaded onto a truck. A female elephant had lost its calf, attacked by another calf, I was told. Saw loco lines and lovely hutments. Wooden bridge under repair. After lunch, we three talked of our hostel days.
Dec. 11 Tue -
To my disappointment, proposal to go to Mayabunder was cancelled. My actual aim was to travel to the northernmost place, Diglipur, as I had already travelled to the southernmost point of not only the Island Group but also of India, i.e., Parsons Pygmalion Point in Great Nicobar Island (renamed Indra Point, after her helicopter hopping visit there). If not to Diglipur, we must at least visit Mayabunder. Watched fish being cleaned for cooking.
Went by PWD truck to RRO No. II and reached there by 11 AM via Betapur. Could not go ahead to Panchavati, 2 KM ahead. Saw lot of pebbles, uprooted trees. Collected some funny looking twigs from there (still with me). While returning, heard a lady had died at Betapur due to abortion, for want of medical facilities. Sad thing. Watched the process of a hen being (un)dressed for lunch. Being a vegetarian (at home), it was an experience sort of; being a non-vegetarian (outside home), I did eat and relish it. Poor soul of the hen, RIP!
In the evening, left for Mayabunder by bus at 3.30 PM via Billyground, Nimbudera, Webi, Tugapur, etc. Reached Mayabunder by 5.15 PM. Viewed an enchanting sunset behind rows of hills, bay and little islets.
Met Mr. Kunjimohammed, working with Police Radio. No accommodation at Rest House. Met Mr. Paul, JE, in charge of Rest House. Agreed to stay with him itself. Met Mr Vasu, JE. Killed a snake. Tasted rosagulla (pure milk). Met the other JE and went to Jetty. Newly constructed. Went around the market, which wound up by 8 PM. For dinner, took green plantain ( 15 P. each; Rs.2/kg), Glucose biscuit (packet Rs.1.25) and milk. After bathing, slept like a log from 10 PM.
Dec. 12 Wed. -
Woke up by 4 AM. Could not locate Rest House. People said sunrise from that point would be wonderful. Viewed it from Police Radio ground. Went to jetty. The marigold sun peeped out of the sea at 5.40 AM. After taking a few snaps, boarded the bus at 6.15 and reached Pitcher at 8.15 AM, after a 15-minute halt at Nimbudera. Lazily spent the time. Kamala orange Rs.19/12 kg basket, i.e., Rs.1.60/kg. Breakfast at Ignatius house was sweet & spicy paniyarams. Slept for a while; then went and thanked Mr. Bansal and family. Then it was gossip time till 10 PM, about our Polytechnic days.
Dec. 13 Thur.
Had to wake up at 3.10 AM itself. Bus was at 4.20 AM. Ticket Rs.1.30. Crowded after Betapur. Reached Nimbudera at 5.30. Silhouette of trees was so charming. School children for the 9 AM (half-yearly) exam came too early in this bus itself. Next bus might not come in time, hence this ordeal. Poor souls. Sunrise at 5.45 was so wonderful, full like an orange-coloured ball! Never seen such a magnificent sunrise. Hence these Islands are famed as Islands of the Marigold Sun. Ferry Yamuna left at 6 AM. As the ferry was not berthed close enough, had to undertake some tricky feats to board it. A woman patient on stretcher was also taken in (probably to GB Pant Hospital in Port Blair).
The sea was rough, so I had giddiness. Touched Long Island at 7.30 AM. In local parlance, this island is called ‘Longaline’. Bought three biscuit packets costing Rs.1.20 each. The petty shop was so far off from the jetty. Not a single shop or tea stall near the jetty. Had to rush. Left at 8.10 or so. A yacht sailing out from Long Island presented a perfect picture. A mass of rock with small trees stood out right in the mid sea. Saw Strait (or Straight) Island, but did not notice any work for a jetty, as reported in the newspaper. Till we reached Havelock, it was a secured bay-like atmosphere - either side hills, so calm and enjoyable. Watched five or six big dolphins swim along for ten minutes. So close to the prow and on either side. Quite fast but at the same time gentle movements and some tricks. Sometime they swam together and at times they outsmarted the ferry’s speed. Smooth like black rubber, pointed fins and nose.
No other halt. It was, at last, a big relief to see the hazy outline of Bambooflat range and Mt. Harriet. Hoped to reach soon, but took more than two hours. Those two hours were terrible hours for me. Did not even look out for the North Bay Lighthouse. All were tired and fed up and some were vomiting. With orange on sale onboard, they were just throwing the peel all around and spitting the seeds. It was so nasty. Not enough seating arrangement. With people sitting and lying, and baggage scattered everywhere, it was very inconvenient. Well, with Rs.4.75, what more can one expect? Made two friends onboard. No idea about canteen onboard; whether it served passengers at all, no idea.
Sighted Ross Island. So glad and relieved. Strength came back. There was a beehive of activity - packing, dressing, combing, and rolling the beds. Berthed at Fisheries Jetty at 2.30 PM. Taxi to Goalghar Rs.15. I shared Rs.5 Eagerly read personal letters. Had refreshing, strong coffee. After a cool bath, met friends, snacks at hotel, dropped a letter to mother in Madras about safe return. Accounts settled - a grand total of Rs.90 ONLY + developing, printing, blowups, etc. Happy and sound sleep in my own place and bed after a week! As they say, big or small, own place is better.
I promise to myself not to travel any more by inter-island ferry, but also feel that I must go alone once again to Diglipur on a leisurely trip to see places and meet people.
Later learnt that on 13th Dec. night, there was a two-second tremor at Mayabunder (Dec. 15 Daily Telegraph, page 4).
Ferry Charge
From To Cabin Bunk Deck Distance in
Nautical Mile
Rupees
PORT BLAIR Rangat Bay 16.40 8.30 4.75 50
Mayabunder 26.75 13.65 7.75 85 (74 Via Long Island & 75 via Havelock)
Diglipur 34.90 17.75 10.15 100
Long Island 13.50 --- 3.90 46
Narcondum Is. 140
East Island 120
South Bay (In Great Nicobar Is.) 300
Long Island Uttara 1.45 --- 0.40
Oral Katcha 5.35 --- 1.55
Rangat 4.70 2.35 1.35
Rangat Bay Mayabunder 11.15 5.65 3.25
Diglipur 19.30 9.80 5.60
Mayabunder Diglipur 8.15 4.20 2.30
Oralkatcha Uttara 4.20 --- 1.20
Rangat 9.55 --- 2.75
Uttara Rangat 6.10 --- 1.75
Port Blair to Baratang – 35; to Kadamtala (Uttaraa Jetty) 50; Oralkatcha – 35; Neil -20 & Havelock – 21.
1 Nautical Mile = 1.852 km. / 6080 ft.
Inchkeith = wrecked ship after Havelock
Baratang – Mud Press Volcano, forestry, elephants, tram (rail) line to transport logs
Bakuntala – East Pakistan refugees settled
Port Cornwallis – Diglipur – settlement ruins of 1792. Saddle Peak 2,402 ft.
Guitar Island – next to Long Island
Egg Island – near Mayabunder harbour
Mayabunder – Karens (Burmese) settled in 1926
Elphinstone Harbour – at the southern end of Middle Andaman
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Thus ends the Diary Notings of my 8-day trip to North Andaman in Dec. 1979.
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S. Balakrishnan
krishnanbala2004@yahoo.co.in
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