Andaman Diary

Andamans visit by Mom in 1980 - Island Diary

S. Balakrishnan
krishnanbala2004@yahoo.co.in

I had maintained a diary of my mother’s (Mrs. Parvatham Srinivasan) visit to Port Blair during Jan.-Feb. 1980. Pl. note that this is in the diary-writing style:

January 22 1980 Tue.:
TSS Nancowry leaves Madras (now Chennai) Harbour at 3.30 PM. “C” Class Cabin fare is Rs.355 + Re. 1 toll tax. The next day, a film was shown for bunk class passengers, and on 24th, for cabin class passengers.

Jan. 25 Fri.:
TSS Nancowry, built in 1948 with a gross tonnage of 10,924, arrives with 446 passengers, 754 tonnes cargo and 120 bags of mail, whereas its full capacity is 903 passengers (295 cabin and 608 bunk), 1,550 Dead Weight Tonne. Expected at 2 PM, but sighted near Ross Island at 3.30. A cargo ship moved aside, giving berth for Nancowry. R.V. (research vehicle) Gaveshini, the oceanographic survey vessel, was also berthed at Haddows Wharf. It was 5 PM when it berthed at last. It took another half an hour by the time ladder/step was attached and she finally touched the solid ground after three full days.

We hired a taxi to reach my residence opposite Radha-Gobind Temple. As was the practice, the taxi driver charged a flat rate of Rs.20. Mainland being the only source for all items, she had brought an HMT watch, vessel for cooking idlis, suitcase, dress material, calendar, diaries, etc., for my friends.

Jan. 26 Sat.:
Republic Day. Some 300 metres from my backyard was the blue sea. Abutting it is the Marina Park. We went to witness the R-day parade there. At 8.30 AM, the Chief Commissioner hoisted the tricolour, from which spot Netaji had hoisted it in 1943 itself. The CC handed over commendation certificates to 19 persons and then addressed the gathering. Then started the parade - men from Navy & Air Force, CRPF, Police, NCC, Scouts, students from various schools, pairs representing Tamil Nadu (over makeup), Kashmir, UP; folk dancers of Ranchi, Nicobar, Nagaland, Bengal, Karnataka, Kerala, Maharashtra; then tableaux of Andaman PWD, Youth Hostel, Animal Husbandry - Operation Flood II, Education, Fire Service, Health, Fisheries, etc. Though tired out by the official speech, we were rejuvenated by the colourful parade.

In the evening, I took her to the market (Aberdeen Bazaar) and bought cauliflower (Rs. 5 each), tomato Rs.5/kg, Apple Rs. 12 (each or kg.?), drumstick Rs.2. Curry leaves are not given free, as in mainland.

The Clock Tower has been decorated with serial lighting. Decorated Navy ships were standing off the shore. We watched cultural programme; many items were about Krishna’s leela with gopikas, tribal dance, etc. We left by 8.15 PM, as it was getting quite chill. Dinner at Anthony’s house, and return.

Jan. 27 Sun.:
My friend Anthony (APWD) came for breakfast, while James (Tata Co.) came for lunch. In the evening we visited the Handicrafts Exhibition organized in connection with the Republic Day at Central School (old), Aberdeen. Exquisite handicrafts made out of shells, like table lamp, ashtray, flower vase, pen stand, key chain, dollars, pendants, necklace set, rings, bangles, agarbathi stand, etc. There were wooden works, lace & embroidery works and rattan works, and buoys turned into wonderful lampshades. Other local products like ink, chalk pieces, phenyl were also displayed. Departments like Health, Forest, Animal Husbandry, and Education had also put up stalls to explain their schemes. There were two crowded food stalls.

While returning home, I introduced mother to a Tamil family living a few houses ahead of ours, so that she could pass her time talking to them when I am gone to office.

Jan. 28 Mon.:
Mom wrote a few letters. She had a chat with the landlady (Mrs. Rao, a local) in a mixture of Tamil, Hindi & English + gesture language. In the evening, we strolled leisurely to Marina Park and Aberdeen Jetty, posting the mail on the way. On the way back, bought some vegetable - small coconut Rs.1.20, 300 gm. Cucumber 75 P, ¼ kg. Brinjal 60 P. We had a glance of the science exhibition organaised by school students. As it was too crowded and as we were hungry also, we quickly left. Window-shopped at Hirawats Shell Crafts. Drank tender coconut @ Rs.1.20 each.

Jan. 29 Tue.:
I attended office today. In the evening, we worshipped at Radha-Gobind temple and Vetrimalai Murugan Temple, both. Enjoyed Tamil programme of AIR local station.

Jan. 30 Wed.:
Mother had sore throat. I had aggravated it by compelling her to drink tender coconut, as advised by my friends. Took the 8 ½ AM bus, consulted the doctor (Rs.12 consultation charge) and bought a packet full of tablets. By 10 AM bus, we got down at Chatham stop. Friend Anthony is constructing a 400-gallon capacity tank for supply of drinking water to ships. The base work of crisscrossing iron rods looked like a beautiful flower. Chugging smoke, TSS Nancowry was ready to leave Haddows Wharf in a few hours.

At the Chatham factory, Asia’s first and biggest, wooden logs, beams and planks of various sizes were stored up to the rooftop. Trolleys were moving around busily on rails; giant rotary saws with sharp teeth were tasting the wood; different sections for different woods, like Padauk, hard wood, soft wood, etc. The first settlement was established here on this island only. Trees were pulled down to build settlement. The wooden jetty and bridge built by the criminal convicts were in use till last year; now that concrete jetty and bridge have been constructed, they are in disuse. We wondered if the level of the island would have risen by the saw dust itself. Maybe the sawdust dunes would reclaim the sea around the island. We remembered the sawdust stove we used for cooking way back in the 70s. Three Coast Guard ships and other departmental boats were lazily dancing up & down. At the Haddows Wharf, diesel barrels that had arrived from mainland were being loaded onto a small boat and into the stomach of a barge, to be sent to other islands.

A dog had somehow got into (or fell into) a tar drum and got stuck. People were scared to put their hand inside and help it get out. When the barrel was put on the floor, with great difficulty the dog came out, with cuts on its throat and leg. Ponnusamy (Memory Studio; later joined Zoological Survey of India) came home and gathered the suitcase, clothing, and calendar that mother had bought/brought from mainland. It was so chill in the night that dew dripped from the roof.

Jan. 31 Thur.:
We walked down to the quarters for the staff of Dy. Accountant General, besides Central School. Heavy lunch at friend the Avadhani’s house. From there we reached Fisheries Jetty. Exactly at 3 PM, the launch took off for a trip within the Port Blair harbour area. First it touched Hope Town/Panighat (pani = water was supplied from this area to the ships); then Bambooflat where Andaman Timber Industry is located besides a TB Hospital (it takes 3 hours by bus from Port Blair, whereas it is just 30 P by ferry), then Haddows Jetty where a ship named Bhagat Singh and Navy ships were berthed; Indian Oil Corpn. Tanks are situated here. Dundas Point (bricks are made here Rs.150/1000); then we touched Junglighat, full of government quarters, on to Viper Island, Mithakari and again to Dundas Point, and lastly Haddows Jetty at 5.45 PM. We witnessed sunset and also full moon as we ferried across the harbour. Met my friend Anthony near YMCA. It was Thai Poosam day, a festive occasion in Lord Murugan temples. We worshipped the procession of Lord Murugan of Vetrimalai Temple. Though the milkmaid promised to supply milk @ Rs.1.75/ ½ pound (Horlicks bottle), she never turned up. We had to depend on milk powder only.

Feb. 1 Fri. (1980):
Port Blair AIR broadcast Tamil songs for 10 minutes in the morning. It was heartening. As the 8.30AM bus did not turn up, walked down all the way to the bus terminus. Mother, accompanied by friends from DAG quarters, went to Mariamman temple and returned. Took mother to Cellular Jail and clicked some snaps. Did some shopping - ghee Rs.28/kg, brinjal Rs. 2 ½ /kg and lobia Rs. 3/kg. Hired a taxi for Rs. 3 to residence. After some rest, I went to office and collected letters. Collected the negatives of the earlier roll from the photo studio, met friends and returned. Highlight of the day - no piped water today. Managed with the stored water in the cement tank in the bathroom.

Feb. 2 Sat.:
As mother prefers fresh atta to the readymade atta, bought wheat and ground it to flour. The charge is 50 P. (per kg, till 5 kg). In the afternoon, we visited the Mini Zoo (chidiya ghar); no proper maintenance. At the preservation unit of Agri-Horticulture Society, ginger squash was being sold @ Rs.3.50/bottle, orange squash @ Rs.4.50. On way back, visited DAG quarters and returned home with K. Chinnathambi (Teacher at Mangluttan). Invited Anthony and Rajadurai (both Junior Engineers in Andaman Public Works Department; the latter is on deputation from Central PWD) for evening tea, the next day. We enjoyed the hostel day celebration of the school from our house through binocular. A variety of Tamil songs was broadcast by the local AIR station in the evening.

Feb. 3 Sun.:
As mother did not feel well, plan to visit Chidiyatappu cancelled. I visit the market and buy tomato (Rs.4/kg), mango Rs.1.50/each, ½ a dozen green plantain Rs. 1 (each or ½ a dozen, I don’t remember now), curry leaves 15 P /3 bunch and dhania leaves 10 P., green chilli 75 P/50 gram. Rajadurai enjoyed the homely meal and even took a parcel of it for night.

Feb. 4 Mon.:
The 9 AM bus came at 9.45; it was 11 AM when we landed at Chidiyatappu, paying Rs.1.30 as fare for each. Dr. Salim Ali, the world-renowned ornithologist, was camping at the guest house on a 3-day trip. As we paid our respects to him, he returned it and enquired where I was working, how will we return, when was the return bus, etc. When I wished to take some photographs, he graciously facilitated and then enquired about my simple ‘box’ camera. Was it an Indian make, will it give good prints, etc. He also desired me to send him the copies, if the prints had come out well. So humble and simple. Some 10-12 people were staying with him, to hunt birds, clean and stuff them, etc. He felt sorry to kill birds even for the sake of research. Later, he was shooting birds with his tele lens camera. In the afternoon, he left by dhongi to board a motor launch to visit Kalapahad Island. Later, when I sent him the photo prints, he was magnanimous to send a hanks letter written in his own handwriting.

For lunch we had parotta, murukku, fruits. The fruits that were meant for temple were also eaten up. Had a chat with the lady of the Tamil family settled there: came 22 years before (1957) to the Islands; seven years later (1964) came to Chidiyatapu. Very lonely; elephants & deer were roaming. Now well settled with paddy field, coconut & areca nut groves, cattle, sheep, chickens, motor boat, house & garden; daughter married off, 2 boys to be married.

Boarded the 3 PM bus. By 4 PM we reached back Port Blair. Rash driving even in hairpin bends, W & M bends, without letting a truck overtake. Anthony’s cousin’s family (he was staying with them) did not turn up. However, Chinnathambi & Lakshmanan came and relished the snacks made for them. Went to Dy. Accountant General Office quarters and explained the situation to Mr. Avadhani. Heard Tamil songs in the noon; AIR Port Blair broadcast Tamil devotional songs in the morning.

Beans (avarakkai) Rs. 3/kg and lemon 30 P each.

Feb. 5 Tue.:
Today we visited Austinabad Mariamman Temple. Some devotees were fulfilling their vow by offering two goats and clean shaving their head. On return, purchased groceries, met Mrs. Avadhani at DAG Quarters and returned home by taxi (Rs. 3). In the evening, with some difficulty, purchased 2 litres of kerosene (Rs. 3.02/ litre). Great achievement! From State Library, borrowed some books written by Tamil author Jayakanthan. Collected mail & newspapers from the office. Anthony came home to seek forgiveness for not coming yesterday. Letters from relatives enquired mother’s sea journey, sight seeing, and date for ‘valaikappu’ (bangle) ceremony for my second sister.

Feb. 6 Wed.:
Attended office. Mother prepared some sweet dish. In the evening, we saw Tamil movie “Itho Enthan Deivam’ at Lighthouse cinema hall. Rs. 3/ ticket. It was a houseful show. At Devi Café, had vada and coffee. Returned home on foot; pleasant walk.

Feb. 7 Thu.:
In the evening, James (Tata Fishing Co.) and Anthony (APWD), and Mrs. & Mr. Dasaratharaman (who said they would make a surprise visit) joined us for refreshment. Mrs. Avadhani noted down the recipe for the sweet dish.

Feb. 8 Fri.:
Went by bus to the aerodrome and watched the landing & take off of the Calcutta-Port Blair-Calcutta (now Kolkatta) flight. The plane landed with 24 passengers, 269 kg. mail, and 2,671 kg. cargo. The outgoing flight left with 63 passengers, 219 kg. mail and 10 kg. cargo. Mr. Nirupon Chakraborthy, Chief Minister of Tripura, left by the flight. Returned home by taxi (Rs. 5). After an hour's permission, I reported for duty at 10AM. In the evening, returned home with mail and newspaper that had arrived by the morning flight. We took a taxi to see Veerapandia Kattabomman (a popular, old Tamil film) at Ansari cinema theatre (near aerodrome?). Returned by taxi (Rs. 5 one way). There were many cuts and hence could not enjoy the film.

Feb. 9 Sat.:
Being a holiday, visited All India Radio station. (Taxi fare Rs. 5) Mrs. Vanaja, Tamil announcer was yet to come, so we enjoyed the scenery from the vantage hilltop where the AIR station was located. We could see aerodrome, Ross Island, jetties, bazaar. So lovely. It was once the bungalow of Chief Conservator of Forest with lots of cashew trees. AIR Port Blair started as 1-KW station; now upgraded to 20 KW. Reaches 80% of the Island area. Plans to shift to another location. Mrs. Vanaja, who was befriended by mother during her ship journey to Port Blair, took us around various sections like control room, Talk room, recording room, how to change records, preserving & erasing of the tapes, etc., and explained everything elaborately and patiently. As we walked down, visited Beena Arts shop. Plans to visit Viper Island, a restricted area, became uncertain.

Feb. 10 Sun.:
Mother & I took the 9 AM bus to reach the Dhanikari dam by 10 AM. Constructed in 1973 for supplying drinking water. Plans to increase the height. Earlier, Dilathamman Tank was the source. Saw the Japanese guns installed at Dollygunj during the II World War. Took back the 1140 hrs. bus to reach Port Blair by 1230 hrs. That was enough for the day. It was complete rest for the rest of the day.

Feb. 11 Mon.:
In the evening, took mother to 7 or 8 shell craft shops and Cottage Industries Emporium (CIE). Bought wooden plates made of Padauk (Rs. 6.50). At CIE they had only one piece of all the items, as if only for show and not for sale. So could not buy Nicobari hut (Rs. 40). Returned by taxi (Rs. 5)

Feb. 12 Tue.:
In the evening, Mr. Dasaratharaman & family and friends visited. Worshipped at the temple. An aunt from mainland had wondered in her letter if the ship would sail back as planned on 18th!

Feb. 13 Wed.:
The ship TSS Nancowry touched Port Blair at 2.30 PM with 795 passengers, 338 tonnes of cargo and 170 mail bags! With the help of Field Publicity Officer (a sister department of our Ministry) saw documentaries ‘Happy Islands, and the famous ‘Man in search of Man’.

Feb. 14 Thu.:
Today is Maha Sivarathri festival day. Enjoyed sunrise from South Point. From 4.30 AM itself, sun light started spreading. The sun came out by 5.45 AM only. The orange-ball like sun was marvelous. Took three snaps. In the evening, took a bus to Shadipur (that passes through Marina Park) to worship at temples and returned on foot.

Feb. 15 Fri.:
Purchased the return ticket for mother. ‘B’ class Rs. 390/- In the afternoon, visited Anthropological Museum and the Pagoda at Pyongi Kyaung (locally called Pongichang), Dilathamman Tank. There are plans to create an aquarium. Listened to the AIR’s Yuva Vani programme (Youth programme).

Feb. 16 Sat.:
Total Solar eclipse today. But in Andamans, the maximum was about 75% only, at 3.58 PM. Watched it on the wall by reflecting the sun rays on a mirror. Even took a snap of this. From 2.52 to 4.56 PM, it was like a curfew; all the shops were closed, and the bus and ferry service did not function. In 1995, it was 2 full minutes!

Feb. 17 Sun.:
Enjoyed an hour-long drama on Jagatguru Shri Aadi Sankarachariyar, staged by Thirupugazh Sabha. In the evening went to market to buy bread, lemon, orange, Avomin tablet, salt biscuit, etc., for mother’s journey. Mr. Avadhani, Mrs. Vanaja of AIR, Miss Ramani, Mr. Sadasivam, James, Anthony, Mrs. & Mr. Dasaratharaman came to say bye to mother – on foot, scooter, and taxi.

Feb. 18 Mon,1980.:
Mother had a photo session with the landlord’s lady family members. Members of the Pillai family and Periya Pottu (big bindhi) (a few houses ahead of ours) called on mother. Packed and loaded on to taxi (Rs. 13 for Haddows Wharf). The Tata Co. friends and Anthony had come to the Wharf. They demanded ‘payana –k-kasu (gift money before traveling) from mother and got it also. After the name-sake medical checkup, she boarded the ship. With glistening eyes, we parted. I returned by 12 noon, whereas the vessel left only at 1 PM.

My mother’s month-long Island sojourn (Jan. 22 – Feb.21 1980) came to an end. Appreciating her courage to travel alone both ways, I returned to my office (Press Information Bureau – PIB) at Aberdeen Bazaar, near clock tower.

S. Balakrishnan
krishnanbala2004@yahoo.co.in