Konark Sun Temple – Visit in 1983
S. Balakrishnan
krishnanbala2004@yahoo.co.in
blogspot.com : balu’s blog
February 12 1983 (2nd Saturday)
Left room (at YMCA, Cuttack, near Old Secretariat, where my Office Press Information Bureau is also located) at about 7 AM. [For central government staff, it was six-days a week system then. Later, along with the recommendations of V Pay Commission, the five-day week system was introduced, so that the staff could enjoy the weekend and come refreshed on Monday. Rajiv Gandhi, the then Prime Minister, was behind this move.]
Took the bus for Bhubaneshwar. From there, boarded the bus for Konark at 9.05 AM. Lousy bus. Reached Konark at 11.30 AM, via Pipli (famous for appliqué work) 9.30 and Nimapara 10.15 AM. Due to All Orissa Political Science Conference in a nearby college, all private lodges were booked. Hence stayed at Orissa Tourism Development Corporation’s ‘Pantha Nivas’.
Being Saturday, a fair-like atmosphere was around the Navagraha temple. Actually, this panel was above the eastern entrance of the Jagmohana Mandap (worship hall). At the fair, bought a small statue of Sun God (Rs. 15), painted black to appear as if made of polished granite, and a replica of the jagmohana mandap (Rs. 10), both made of soapstone. Both are cute.
After lunch, borrowed a cycle from an employee of OTDC and reached Kuruma, 8 Kms. A primary school teacher led the way. Oh, real village scenes! I thought I will snap them on my return journey, but missed them as I returned by another way, by mistake. A mud road and lucky that I went during this season (not rainy season). In the thatched shed in Kuruma (see map), an earth-touching (bhumi-sparisa) Buddha of life-size or even bigger, with two gandarvas on either side of his shoulder, could be seen. Made of khondalite stone. Two lions, facing opposite directions are sculpted at the pedestal. In between is a female devotee in knelt & bent position with folded arms, with some conical objects in front (maybe votive stupas). The Buddha wears necklace and faces East. On his right is a padmasana goddess (Tara?) and at left is Bhairava and Trivikrama (Vamana avatar). The bricks of vihara are of different sizes, both square and rectangle. I measured two bricks of 22 ½ cm (9 inches) x 22 ½ cm, and of 33 sq. cm. Only the base remains.
Hurried to the Sun Temple, after reaching back Konark at 4.30 PM, to view and take photos during sun set. Took snaps of the western face of the temple, the western parsav-devta Sun God statue (who is executed as if returning tired after a day’s hard work of sun shine) and sunset thro’ the pillars of Bhoga Mandapa (Hall of Offering). The Parsava devta on the Southern side does not wear the sacred ‘U’ marking on the forehead, while the Western parsava devta wears it. There are about 17 folds in the dress.
Bathed, dined and waited for electricity to come. As the power came at 8 PM, rushed to the Sun Temple. Took snaps of the floodlit temple. Hardly any tourists and it was a bit scary. As the flood lights were switched off one by one (after an hour) from different directions, it had a dramatic effect on the structure. Then it was all dark and silent. There were reports that the flood light could affect the structure.
An engineer of OTDC shared the room. Real character! He straight away asked my caste!
February 13 1983 (Sunday):
Did not sleep soundly, fearing I might over sleep and miss the sunrise at the beach. However, when I woke up at 5.30 AM, sacrificed the beach (Chandrabagha beach, some 3 kms.) going plan and enjoyed the sculptures minutely. Very interesting. Sacrificed breakfast for want of time, as I had to vacate the room by noon (12 noon to 12 noon). Went, bathed and checked out of Pantha Nivas of OTDC by 12 noon. Lunch at a private hotel. Back to Sun Temple. Could not click Navagraha, as it was crowded. Went round the Museum, bought the ASI (Archaeological Survey of India) book on Sanchi, Mahabalipuram, 10 picture postcards of Konark, and boarded the bus for Bhubaneshwar at 5 pm. As the bus neared Bhubaneswar, it rained a bit.
The two-day trip cost me Rs. 154.35, as follows:
Feb. 12 1983 Sat. Rs.– P.
Rickshaw fare from YMCA to Badambari bus-stand 02.00
Cuttack to Bhubaneswar bus fare 02.00
Bhubaneswar to Konark bus fare 04.40
Statues of Sun God and Temple (Rs. 15 + 10) 25.00
Lunch Rs. 5 + curd Rs. 1.50 06.50
Air for cycle P. 15 + post card P.15 00.30
Cycle rent for going to Kuruma 05.00
Paid baksheesh (tips) to Priest at Kuruma Temple 02.00
Dinner at OTDC 6 rotis (2.40) paneer-muttar curry (cheese-peas) (4.50)+ omelet (3.50) 10.40
Feb. 13 1983 Sun. 57.60
Lunch (skipped breakfast for want of time) 04.20
2 books on Sanchi & Mahabalipuram by ASI 05.00
10 picture postcards of ASI on Konark 02.25
Room (No. 8) rent single occupancy (Noon to Noon) 30.00
2 packets of milk biscuits 04.40
Konark-Bhubaneswar bus fare 04.40
Bhubaneswar-Cuttack bus fare 02.00
Cycle rickshaw fare (raining) 02.50
1 ½ rolls of Agfa 200 ASA B&W film (developing, printing extra) 42.00
96.75
Grand Total 154.35
S. Balakrishnan
krishnanbala2004@yahoo.co.in
blogspot.com : balu’s blog
For maps, see another post
Kuruma Vihara (near Konark)
Side view of Sun Temple, showing the number of horses & wheels
